Potato Chip Route (Reg Rt) 

Take 1 #4 camalot for pitch 2.

Pitch 3 is not difficult, but is very height dependent for security. On the P3 traverse there are a fe moves with a step up onto a reasonable hold, but if you are short you can't get the hands and feet from there at the same time and you have to set on some not-so-hot slopers to get the incut sidepulls. At 5'10" with long arms, it was no issue, but my 5' 5" partner with short arms had to make some insecure moves on the second.

5.10c? Old fashioned 5.10c maybe. If I go back (and it's a long slog up to here) I'll take a couple #4 Camalots, and maybe even a #5 (for cruising up the wide bit. You are leaving a ledge, so falling on the first (wide) section would be ugly unless there is gear close by. Crux seemed to be laybacking near the top, where the crack is about 1.5" or so. Pitch three I stepped just around the corner and headed straight up the arete, about 5.10a S. Exposed, slightly licheny, reachy, but fun. Don't try this on a windy day. Especially don't try this in a thunderstorm; the summit is pockmarked with funny shattered craters from (can't possibly be falling rocks) lightning bolts. No possibility of a belay on summit, so you have to head east to the neck, and your second will follow the regular pitch 3 traverse, or else risk a huge pendulum.

Actually for gear, all you need is. . . . a set of tuber chocks (sorry)

I don't think a #5 camalot (old style) will fit, A #4 (old style) will however, or you could probably set in a good #4.5 camalot. The crux is near a great 2" cam anyway, a red camalot or a purple or red H.B. quadcam.

I could've sworn I managed to get a #3 Camalot in that crack by reaching deep inside it. But this was 7 years ago, maybe I did have a #4.

At the crux above I remember there is a good hold (you hope) above it, I just gunned for that hold (and barely made it).

Got on this route yesterday for the first time and thought it was harder n' sheit, It didn't feel like other 10.c's I've done in Eldo and I was glad not be leading. With a 3.5 and 4.5 camalot in the wide spot and #1 at the crux it looked well protected but watch out for a loose flake at the bottom and one at the top of the second pitch. Last pitch is fun but spooky. There was a piece of old webbing wedged behind a flake with a steel rap link on the very summit, I hope people didn't really rap off that???

A #5 C4 is nice to have on pitch two. I placed two #4's but one would suffice. You don't need a #2 or #3 C4 for the crack, but a #2 is good for the belay above the crack.
I think this is hard for 10c but only for a move or two. Luckily the crux crack pitch is short.