Potash Road Rock Climbing
Somewhere along Potash Road...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
An excellent mix of trad and sport lines, often with routes very close together (some contrived sport routes do exist, but this is not the norm) and the ability to belay from your car or with only a very short walk in make the Potash Road crags a must-climb for any visitor. They are also an excellent introduction to some of the more committing desert climbs in the region. You won't find some of the tower climbing, the mudpiles, or the splitter cracks of other areas, but instead flakes, slabs, nubbins, edges, and other features abound.
Well over a hundred routes exist in the Wall Street area alone, and dozens of others on the other roadside crags and in side canyons. Routes range from 5.4 TR slabs to at least 5.12+, with most being in the .10-.11 range but also with many moderate classics (.8-.9s).
Please use the restroom facilities at either the Jaycee Campground (3.9 miles in) or at the "Indian Writing" sign (5 miles in). Use caution with the anchors and rock, and rap when necessary to preserve the rock and anchors; and watch for poison ivy in the summer! Watch for speeding potash-haulers and 4x4s, as well as tourons watching you and not the road, and be sure to park out of the way.
Potash Road (Utah highway 279) is less than five minutes from downtown Moab, and the approach to many of the routes is zero. From Moab drive North on 191 (the main drag) for 1.3 miles past the bridge over the Colorado River (or 1 mile South from Arches NP) and turn South on 191, marked with signs for Potash and 279. All distances to crags are measured from this intersection.
Weather station 2.0 miles from here
267 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',38],['3 Stars',115],['2 Stars',90],['1 Star',21],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Potash Road
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Potash Road
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Potash Road:
Featured Route For Potash Road
"Stick to the Mission" 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
: Moab Area
: ... : The Mission
"Stick to the Mission", a Toddism that kept so many of us focused on what mattered (climbing), follows the obvious dihedral to splitter on the southwest face. P1 is a soft hand crack in a corner. A bit awkward but fun. Belay at the fixed anchors on the ledge.P2 is the business. Do some face moves with a bolt protecting you (5.11) to the splitter. The crack starts as a good hands, then goes to cupped hands, then fists, and then at the dogleg it turns to 5 inches of OW that holds steady for 80 fee...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 13, 2004
Great hangout, bring suntan lotion, watch for speeding semi trucks, and have fun.
Load up on food and water in town and take a left one you head west over the river.
Remember to watch where you camp, cause you might get a ticket if you are in the wrong spot.
By Andy Laakmann
From: Bend, OR
Mar 30, 2009
Kudos to Sam Lightner Jr. / ASCA for replacing virtually every piece of steel on Potash. Most popular anchors are now sporting fat, modern, and painted hardware.
Nov 28, 2011
5 or 6 years ago, my wife and I did some stellar bouldering down this road (south side of the river), on par with Big Bend bouldering. Exotic red rock with white spots.
Jun 22, 2012
this is a shot in the dark but i was swimming and climbing along the colorado the weekend of 15th and left a pair of 5.10 moccasins size 9.5 at the lone boulder along potash rd next to the indian writing sign :( if someone happened to find them and then look on this site that would be amazing !
thanks and i guess ill throw a reward in :)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 29, 2015
Had a really great time climbing here. Having trouble identifying the last climb we did that day, it was the last sport route before the petros. Anyone know the name or grade of that climb?