Start 15 left of Static Cling. Do a few moves to get into the splitter hand crack formed by the main wall and a giant flake that leans into the corner to the right that forms Static Cling. Climb the splitter then follow the crack up the most obvious line which trends right and widens about 30 feet up until you reach the Static Cling anchors. A bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience.
This climb is described in some guide books as a top rope. It protects well the entire climb but the fact that you are climbing a giant detached flake becomes more obvious the higher you climb. The flake must weight many tons and is reasonbly solid but I suggest placing cams on the upper section in such a way that the outward force of a cam would exert a force on the flake pushing left/right of you as you face the rock (toward Static Cling) versus into/away from the rock (toward the road). It may be possible to push the flake outward but definitely not to the right toward Static Cling. This may not be possible in the wide section but is possible on the upper part of the route.
Thump the flake up high with the heal of your hand and discover where the name of the climb came from. Sorry, the name doesn't refer to taking a bong hit.
This route is right of Skeletonic and just left of Static Cling and shares the same anchors as Static Cling.
Camolots: single set from .5 to 4. Extra 1's and 2's for the hand crack.
|By Greg D|
Mar 15, 2008
A new variation exist, put up in 07. After climbing the hand crack, head out left past some bolts to anchors. See description of Good, The Bad and the Potash 11b/c.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Mar 23, 2008
The upper section is deeply frightening to climb, but seems solid enough. The hand crack that makes up the first half of the climb is really good.
|By Greg D|
Jan 30, 2009
I have noticed three people have suggested this route is harder than 9. I think this route may be a bit harder for small hands or people with little jamming experience. But all in all I think this route is no harder than Flakes of Wrath, Bad Moki Roof or Eyes of Falina, all 9's. So, I believe the 9 rating is fair for this area.
From: Chicago, IL
Aug 13, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Greg D -
Agreed. Small hands would certainly up the difficulty level, but in terms of desert hand cracks, this is a 9. Also, I found this route significantly easier the cruxes of Flakes and Bad Moki.
|By Tyson W.|
From: South Lake Tahoe, CA
Nov 22, 2013
This is a classic line.
The only draw back (which is really a plus for wusses like me) is that it sets you up perfectly for a TR preview of the 4 star .11 line right next to it, dashing any hopes of an OS attempt.
But don't fret, red points are cool too.