|Up Among the Firs
I wasn't sure whether to call this trad or sport as it's entirely bolt protected except for one placement.
The semi-intimidating arete left of A Little Testis.
Slab past the first two bolts of Unusual panic which will seem like the crux if you're dialed in to Squamish slabs. After the 2nd bolt, veer right towards a crack where the slab meets a bolted arete at a left facing corner. Place a #2 Camalot sized piece (w/ runner) in the corner then continue up the corner until you can clip the first bolt on the arete. Transition onto the arete and enjoy clean face climbing (w/ holds) until you top out at anchors.
A few feet left of the Testis corner.
About 7 bolts and one hand sized piece.
|By Mike Teschke|
From: North Vancouver
Jul 23, 2008
It's a pretty scary clip if you neglect to bring that piece of pro.
But a fun climb with some fantastic views and a very exposed feel as you move up and onto the bolted arete.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Jan 12, 2011
I got a #3 WC nut before the first bolt, takes a bit of the spice out of things. Wild route though, balls out fun.
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 4, 2011
awesome climb! 4 stars for sure. I second the comment that you can place either a smaller nut or a #00 cam before the first bolt if you want. Then either #1 or #2 in the roof before the arete. The arete is the business and it's soooooo good!! Extend the anchors (cordalette or two double length slings) if setting up the TR.
You can also take sick pictures of your friends on the corner from atop this pitch.