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> Murrin Park
> Up Among the Firs
Poster Boy
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.5 from 40
votes
Routes in Up Among the Firs
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A Little Testis T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chokin' A Grogan S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Collet a Day T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dance of the Bean S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Nose, The S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Nostalgia Aint What it Used to be T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poster Boy T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Road Rash T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Toasted Testa Rossa T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Totally Clips S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Usual Panic S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wicker Cranium T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Zazert T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Zeasi T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Payan & Thomson 1997 |
| Page Views: | 3,328 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | david goldstein on Aug 12, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
I wasn't sure whether to call this trad or sport as it's entirely bolt protected except for one placement.
The semi-intimidating arete left of A Little Testis.
Slab past the first two bolts of Unusual panic which will seem like the crux if you're dialed in to Squamish slabs. After the 2nd bolt, veer right towards a crack where the slab meets a bolted arete at a left facing corner. Place a #2 Camalot sized piece (w/ runner) in the corner then continue up the corner until you can clip the first bolt on the arete. Transition onto the arete and enjoy clean face climbing (w/ holds) until you top out at anchors.
The semi-intimidating arete left of A Little Testis.
Slab past the first two bolts of Unusual panic which will seem like the crux if you're dialed in to Squamish slabs. After the 2nd bolt, veer right towards a crack where the slab meets a bolted arete at a left facing corner. Place a #2 Camalot sized piece (w/ runner) in the corner then continue up the corner until you can clip the first bolt on the arete. Transition onto the arete and enjoy clean face climbing (w/ holds) until you top out at anchors.
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