Get a copy of Don Mellor's Blue Lines book for the best information.
The first pitch is steep but not quite vertical, belay from ledge on climbers right. Sometimes the first pitch does not reach the ground or is very thin, pay attention and be careful. The pitch two columns are the definite crux. The final pitch is less involved. Hike the ridge to climbers left to the descent gully or if it is late and no climbers are below rap the face using v-threads.
Located between Keeseville and Elizabethtown on Route 9. Routes are visible from HWY 87. If traveling the interstate, use the Willsboro exit to Route 9. Park on the side of the road at the Poke-O-Moonshine campground. The campground facilities are closed during the winter. Follow the trail on the right up through the woods towards the waterfall, one trail will continue straight up towards the waterfall area and the other trail will head right under the face. The climb is a few hundred yards down, there is a very large area at the bottom for safe belaying.
Standard screws and draws for the area.
|By Derek Doucet|
Jul 19, 2010
An absolutely superb route! In typical mid season conditions, PT is usually on the easy end of grade 5, but when thin and boney, it can feel much harder!
|By Colin R|
From: Ottawa, ON
Jan 23, 2011
Ice is in thick on this route on the first pitch however the upper section is sketchy with an ill-formed column thats hollow for about 7-8 feet just before and somewhat during the technical crux but fortunately it thickens again after that. I did not lead but it felt sketchy enough on follow. We managed to almost do it 2 200 foot full pitches with a 60 foot pigmy slab pitch at the end that we simul-climbed