This full-length route has the best dimpled climbing in the Adirondacks.
P1 5.10b G: Go up the corner to its top (5.7), then go straight up the vertical face. At the top, work right (crux) to a dimple-pulling finish. Once on a ledge, scramble up and left to a fixed anchor. 160'
P2 5.9 PG: Go straight up to a flake, then right to a right-facing edge. Continue straight up black, dimpled awesomeness until you can runout up and right across the "triple R-K" (right rising ribbon of knobs). Mantel into a rust pocket, then go straight up. When the angle diminishes, run up to a headwall and make another move (hard only because of rope drag) to a fixed anchor. 160'
Descent: Rappel with two 60m ropes.
Walk uphill and left along the base of the cliff for 15 minutes to an open area (the bombardment zone from winter ice) with a large pancake-shaped flake leaning against the wall. Begin 40' left of this on a ledge below a shallow right-facing corner.
P1 requires a couple nuts or cams for the 5.7 start, and a #1 Camalot for a directional at the top. For P2, it's nice to have a #2 Camalot. Otherwise, just draws.
Following P2 of Positive Latitude.
Randy finishing the first pitch
By J. Nickel
Oct 11, 2014
The nuts for the hangers on the bolts at the first belay need tightening. Maybe someone could bring a wrench up if I don't get a chance?
Outstanding face climbing on this one!
By Jim Lawyer
Sep 28, 2014
P2 is one of the most amazing pitches anywhere. Super good dimple climbing.