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 ADVANCED
Arco Iris
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Positive Affect T,S 

Positive Affect 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 19 pitches, 3000', Grade V
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Drew Smith and Chance Traub
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,053
Submitted By: Dizzle on Jun 18, 2013

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Positive Affect on Arco Iris

Description 

We took six weeks to clean and open Positive Affect on the south face of Arco Iris. Five pitches are 5.9 or easier, it has five pitches of 5.10, eight pitches of 5.11 and one unforgettable 5.12 pitch.
Positive Affect follows dihedral systems with delicate foot work and stemming along with varied crack systems that lead you to the steeper upper section of the route. The crux is pitch 18 a vertical dihedral starting with a finger crack then moving into 40 meters of sustained stemming with plenty of exposure below. The 5.12 pitch has 12 bolts and can be climbed going from bolt to bolt.
The route was named after Jen Dinaburg, Traubís late wife who passed away from adrenal cancer in April of 2012.

For Pictures and pitch descriptions visit drewsplan.blogspot.com/2013/04...

Watch this video of establishing Positive Affect

Location 

Find specific approach and decent beta in the refugio

Protection 

All 19 pitches are equipped with 2 stainless steel Fixe hangers with rappel rings. The gear recommended is doubles from micro cams up to a #4 BD Camalot
Single set of micro stoppers and medium stoppers
12 draws
Optional #5 BD Camalot for pitch 17


Photos of Positive Affect Slideshow Add Photo
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Daniel Seeliger leading pitch 16
Daniel Seeliger leading pitch 16
Chance leading pitch 13
Chance leading pitch 13
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Chance leading the crux, pitch 18
Drying out after rain while establishing Positive ...
Drying out after rain while establishing Positive ...
Chance on pitch 4 a splitter finger crack
Chance on pitch 4 a splitter finger crack
Topo of Positive Affect
Topo of Positive Affect

Comments on Positive Affect Add Comment
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By Nick Votto
Mar 10, 2014

Great video and route guys!!! I'm psyched to get down there