|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 19 pitches, 3000', Grade V|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA: ||Drew Smith and Chance Traub |
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||587|
|Submitted By: ||Dizzle on Jun 18, 2013|
|Good Page?||1 person likes this page. Your opinion: |
Positive Affect on Arco Iris
We took six weeks to clean and open Positive Affect on the south face of Arco Iris. Five pitches are 5.9 or easier, it has five pitches of 5.10, eight pitches of 5.11 and one unforgettable 5.12 pitch.
Positive Affect follows dihedral systems with delicate foot work and stemming along with varied crack systems that lead you to the steeper upper section of the route. The crux is pitch 18 a vertical dihedral starting with a finger crack then moving into 40 meters of sustained stemming with plenty of exposure below. The 5.12 pitch has 12 bolts and can be climbed going from bolt to bolt.
The route was named after Jen Dinaburg, Traubís late wife who passed away from adrenal cancer in April of 2012.
For Pictures and pitch descriptions visit drewsplan.blogspot.com/2013/04/cochamo-valley-chile-part-8-t>>>
Watch this video of establishing Positive Affect
Find specific approach and decent beta in the refugio
All 19 pitches are equipped with 2 stainless steel Fixe hangers with rappel rings. The gear recommended is doubles from micro cams up to a #4 BD Camalot
Single set of micro stoppers and medium stoppers
Optional #5 BD Camalot for pitch 17
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