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 ADVANCED
The Starcastle
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Citadel, The S,TR 
Elliptical Seasons S 
Forces S 
Fountains of Light S 
Lady Of The Lake S 
Pig's Nose S 
Portraits S 
Silver Winds T 
To The Fire Wind T 
Warping The Gale S 

Portraits 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The Head Crew
Page Views: 378
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 20, 2001

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Description 

Portraits stands two routes down hill from Lady of the Lake and on the next most distinct turret. You pass another good roof problem on the way. Use the fixed rope to scramble down. Portraits is the right of two routes on this turret. It can be done by entering from the left at 5.12b, but this seems improbable and I have found the right hand start at 5.11d to make more sense. My guess is that most climbers will enter from the right hand start. Either way converges at the first bolt. A series of seams and overlaps leads to a final 5.11d crux move 30 ft from the anchor. Some good holds lie rather far to the right, so if the going gets thin, look around the corner. Nough said. Great route, and worth three stars for continuity and quality.

Protection 

QD only. Just about 90 ft, a bit less perhaps, but a dozen QD and something for the double bolt anchor at the top is all you need.


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