Portly Gentleman's Route
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Ultra classic hard trad route!
Short handcrack splitter to some juggy steep stuff, and then a steeper thin hands and finger crack in a corner. Stemming will help you save juice for later; you'll need it! There is a fixed piece at the top of this dihedral. From here, hand traverse out a very airy ledge to an awkward heel-toe stance below the final headwall. Set a bomber piece (or two), and pray that your v-bouldering skills are up to par for the crux headwall's amazing combination of tips locks and sidepull slaps. Two-bolt anchor.
One of the first routes you walk under approaching the Orchard Wall from downstream end.
hands to tiny. Extra red camalots worked very well for me throughout this climb. Option of a wide piece (#4) in the horizontal at the roof. Bolted anchor.
By Ryan Curry
Oct 20, 2014
Watch the rope-cutting roof on this awesome route. The safe, although scary, strategy is to place gear in the roof and at the lip (bomber) and then climb the crux, avoiding the temptation to place thin gear on the final "headwall" stretch. If you blow it you'll take a big whip, but your rope won't be pulled against the sharp lip of the roof.
As for TR'ing, I don't know if there's really a good way to do it. I would probably pull the rope through the gear and TR straight from the anchor, sans directionals. You'll take a big swing if you fall before the crux seam, but it'll be plenty safe.
Sick route by any measure. One of the best I got on in our short trip out here.