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Porter for Recorder 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Mike Williams
Season: October - March (only when the water is down)
Page Views: 228
Submitted By: Chris Whisenhunt on Feb 20, 2014

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Description 

Wow. Wow. Wow. This is a contender for best 5.11 in the area. The first two bolts were already there when Mikey finished it off, so don't judge him for those two. Well actually never mind that; judge him all day. The second bolt is pretty committing so be careful. After that make your way up the arete to the first boulder problem that utilizes perfectly placed feet, a sidepull and some CRIMPS! No worries though, jugs aren't that far away. From here dance your way up to a slabby area with a slap-you-in-the-face-if-5.11-is-your-limit-crux. Make a few more moves through some horizontals and pull the last roof to clip the chains. This route is wet at the top if it's rained a lot lately, but it's still doable. This is an absolute MUST DO and to me rivals every other 5.11 I have been on here. Beautiful rock, movement, goes to the top of the cliff, and the location couldn't get any better. If you want to know how the route got it's name go buy Mikey's book here.

Location 

Come down the water covered slab in the middle of long point and walk climbers left for 5 minutes until you come to a beautiful left facing arete. This is it.

Protection 

8 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor


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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Feb 23, 2014

This is without a doubt one of the best 5.11s in the entire region. There is no section that is less than perfect. I will say that directions to the waterfall/slab/rope descent to the cliff base can be spotty, so don't despair if you get lost trying to find this thing. It's about a 10 minute walk along the base downstream (climber's left) of the obvious Movie Screen feature.