Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Dome
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bishop Jaggers T 
Bolts to Somewhere T,S 
Burke Box Ball Route S 
Connections T,S 
Dire Straits T,S 
Dos Equis T,S 
Fuzzy Thinking T,S 
Look out, Sarah! T 
Pornographic Motions T,S 
PTL Club T 
Resurrection T,S 
Rhythm Scratch T 
RU Red I T 
Sea Of Holes T 
South Side Johnny T 
Sposi-Isaacs Route T 
Topographical Oceans T 
Village People T 
YMCA Right Variation T 

Pornographic Motions 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Jenkins and Dave Dangle, FFA: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986
Page Views: 1,239
Submitted By: brent pohlmann on Nov 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Good day for it!
Photo by Traskos.

Climber listed...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Route Info 

P1: Climb the disjointed cracks to a bolt. Pull the crux after the bolt and reach a huge ledge you can unrope at. Belay at a tree.

P2: Starts with a terrifying slab through a crack (pro to 2") and then 4 bolts to a two-bolt anchor.

P3: 6 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. The Green Colorado Guide gives this pitch 5.11, but it's not that hard. After the the crux, you clip a bolt and can't see any more bolts. The anchor is just out of sight. From here, you can climb the slab to the summit at 5.0.

A sixty meter rope gets you down.

Location 

To the right of Topographical Oceans.

Protection 

Bolts & gear to at least a #3 Camalot.


Comments on Pornographic Motions Add Comment
Show which comments
By Shane Zentner
From: Colorado
Nov 26, 2007

Pitch 1 (5.10): As mentioned by Brent, follow discontinuous cracks to the slab, clip the bolt (5.10), and belay at the big tree. Small gear.

Pitch 2 (5.9+/5.10): Climb onto the sloping ledge from the pine tree with slings. I used the water groove with the left hand/foot and the small holds with the right hand/foot placements and worked my way right, then up to the crack. The crack takes small gear to a #3 Camalot. I placed a #0.4 Camalot at the start of the crack and a #2 Camalot higher, though I would have placed more gear if I would have brought it.

It is strongly suggested that you protect the crack well, because when the crack runs out, the bolt above you is 15' feet higher on steep slab (5.9+R).

Pitch 3 (5.10++). I didn't lead this pitch, but was thoroughly challenged to the bitter end. Awesome pitch as this is the best pitch on the route. Six bolts to the two bolt anchor.
By John Schaefer
Dec 6, 2007

The FA was done by Steve Jenkins and Dave Dangle. The bolts were put in maybe around 1985? We thought it was 11a back then. I haven't been on it for over 20 years. What's Sea of Holes rated these days?
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 6, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

I smell a sandbag......The last pitch is at least 10+, and Trout's guide gives it a 11b rating.

Sea of Holes is still .11a/b and seems easier to me than PM, but maybe that is due to the nature of the climbing.
By brent pohlmann
From: San Francisco, CA
Dec 7, 2007

Smell a sandbag? I'm the guy who told everyone I was a 5.11 climber after doing an 11a in Boulder Canyon!
The last pitch is no harder than the last pitch of Topographical Oceans, which gets 10b. If you think this pitch is 11b, you should check out Miss Manners on Little Scraggy Dome. It gets consensus 11a and it's considerably harder than Pornographic Motions. The rock quality on pitch 3 of Pornos isn't so great, and I guessed that maybe when they originally climbed this pitch is was MUCH worse, hence the 11b rating. Also you can pimped by going left through the crux when you should go right....who knows....
Besides, if you survive pitch 2 without losing your mind, pitch 3 will feel like a walk in the park!
However, I don't want to be a sandbagger, and if you guys really think this pitch is 11b, then that means I'm "The Man", and I thank you for confirming this.
By Dana Ernst
Dec 8, 2007

Now we have to change Brent's nickname from Mad Dog to Mad Sandbagger! I knew it was always him that was the sandbagger and not me...
By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 13, 2010

Sooo, where on the Dome is this?
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Jan 14, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

In the picture above, the black streak in the foreground is the crux pitch of Topographical Oceans. If you hike around to Connections and look up and right, you will see the one bolt protecting the first pitch.
By john durr
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Sep 4, 2010
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

The original hand drawn topo for the route list the FFA as: Jenkins, Dangle, Keith, Trout, 1986 and was originally rated 5.10c. Originally with just 2 bolts on the second pitch, the FFA team returned to place two more just a bit later.
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Oct 13, 2010

The move above the bolt on the first pitch is somewhat scary. Watch out for the flake below if you blow it!
By Princess Mia
From: Vail
Jun 27, 2011

Exciting and spicy!!!! But with new bolts. 5.10 rating is appropriate. Another South Platte classic!!!! Deserves many stars.