|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 55'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Jesse Ryan on May 4, 2001|
|Comments on Porkus Non Grata||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Lyle Monzyk
Oct 12, 2001
|This is a superb route. Technical and sustained moves throuhout on good pockets with long reaches. For a 10+ this is a must do climb!! It deserves three stars.|
By Jason Halladay
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 13, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
A way-fun bouldery start with two great pockets for hands gets you off the ground past the undercut start to a high first bolt. From there, it's climbing on an improbable-looking, smooth face with good edges to a some steep but nicely-pocketed moves above to sharp rock to the finish.
The route is on the south end of Contest Wall (west side of canyon). It starts directly above a nice, huge belay boulder. Look for an old hangerless bolt on top of the boulder and a bolt and hanger on the uphill end of the boulder at ground level for belaying. The route is right above this boulder.
7(?) bolts to a bolted anchor. The anchor setup is a bit awkward with one high bolt and one low bolt, but it works.
This is one of my favorite routes at Shelf yet. It's got nice variety with a puzzling crux going from the fourth to fifth bolt that's fun once figured out.
By Allison Fritz
From: Los Alamos, New Mexico
Nov 13, 2007
|I have added this route as a favorite at Shelf, also. From a first look, the route looked difficult but as I started climbing, nice ledges and pockets appeared. I enjoyed the start.|
By Bal Rau
From: Denver, Colorado
Oct 10, 2011
|Are you supposed to start this from the ground or from the boulder? It seemed way harder than 10d either way.|