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Juno Tower
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Kicking It Old Testament S 
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Pork Swords S 

Pork Swords 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ken Kisiel, Scott Beguin, Shibli Fazal, and Miguel Hoffman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 541
Submitted By: Scott Beguin on May 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

This route is an aesthetic line up the western side of Juno Tower. Start in a dihedral to gain a large ledge out right, then cruise up some nice huecos to a blank dish dihedral (crux), and then meander up to the anchors after some deep thought at the no hands rest before the blank dihedral.


Location 

This route is the bolted climb located to the left of Little Viking.


Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.



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By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
May 10, 2009

A variation would be to continue past the anchors and merge with, and finish on Little Viking's anchors.

By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Jul 5, 2009

Excellent route! There's a bit of lichen going up to and past the first bolt, but that will clean up with traffic. Rock quality is quite good with the typical bit of grit that you get on A37 tuff. Gets progressively more and more challenging and ends with a technical, well-protected, and continuous crux sequence.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 12, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

The anchor on this climb needs work. When we climbed it today, it was just two bolts, one about 6 inches higher than the other, with the lower one having the sole rap ring. I put two screw links on the higher one (donation thanks to Jason Halladay) to help matters. It still isn't equalized but at least you can rap off of two anchors instead of just one. I hope the route gets chains soon.

By Ken Kisiel
Aug 12, 2009

Agreed Scott has the gear but we have not got around to equipping it. Did you enjoy it?

By Scott Beguin
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 12, 2009

I have the required gear for this route. It will be completely equipped soon. The single bolt is only single but will hold a large truck. So please be patient, and do the climb.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Nice work Ken, Scott, et. al. Thanks for a putting in another good line there--very fun with a thin crux. No worries at all on the anchor. I always carry screw links and/or biners to donate to anchors. We put two screw links on the high bolt so it's close to equal and two more screw links (or replacing the two links using a chain) would do it. In any case, I don't have an issue lowering off one bolt anyway.
All the hardware is great and well placed. Thanks guys.

By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Aug 13, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Agreed, I don't typically have a problem with lowering off of one bolt. I take falls onto single bolts all the time. But I do think the MP community deserves to know exactly what the anchor situation is, as some people would be very uncomfortable lowering off of one bolt, especially one of unknown origin. Most people won't bring enough draws/slings up there to make a toprope that doesn't kink the rope, if that's what they set out to do. So I think the information that I put out there and others put out there is all good stuff. I didn't mean to offend. Please give Jason back his hardware when you do get around to fixing the anchor.

As for the route, I definitely enjoyed it. It isn't super continuous, but it's got some fun moves on good rock (nice job with your cleaning efforts). The bolt placements are well thought out, which is nice because the crux was pretty tough for me.