Porch Monkey 5.12a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.12b [details] |
| FA: | Chip Ruckgraber, Steve Sandal 1988 |
| Submitted By: | Willie Mein on Jun 12, 2002 |
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Description Porch Monkey is an excellent jug fest up the steepest part of The Wall of Voodoo, 15 feet to the left of the steep corner Voodoo Child.
Start up the easy slab (with a bolt) before launching up the overhanging wall. With many big moves on jugs, this route will get you pumped. The bolts are well placed, with a three bolt anchor that will get you back to the ground with one 50m rope.
Although an excellent route, this short and sweet line does have some crumbly rock. A belayer may want to consider using a helmet.
Rolofson's sport climbing guide to Boulder Canyon rates this route 12b/c, however, it is much easier at about 12a/b.
Protection 8 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor w/ rings and a chain.
By Dan Green
Jun 18, 2002
| I agree. This route is 12a/b and really fun. The first three clips are a jug haul to a small roof. Then you move left and reach up for this crack (This is the part that I felt was the crux) , rock up on the lip and you're in a great position to rest. Then you crank through a couple more moves and out to your left is this killer hold that if you get it right, you get another massive rest. The rest of the climbing is straight forward and fun. I think this route definitely gets 3 stars. |
By Steve Sangdahl
From: eldo sprngs,co
Jun 30, 2002
| Porch Monkey is actually 15 to 20 feet right of Voodoo Child. steve s. |
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 17, 2005
| It seems as if Boulder climbers are insecure with grades. Porch Monkey would hold the 12b/c grade in Rifle (which is a warm up there, if you were not aware) so if climbing at this grade is a big deal to you then live it up, and yes you will be able to climb practically every 12b in Rifle if you can climb Porch Monkey (have fun waiting in line with all the other dolts!). |
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