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The Penny Hill Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Lion's Den 
Lip Traverse, left to right 
Nothing But the Sun 
Porcelain Hook Slide 
Second Look Arete 

Porcelain Hook Slide 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder, 1 pitch, 12'
Consensus:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Marc Troob
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 615
Submitted By: marctroob on Apr 14, 2012

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Dana trying some foot beta on Marc Troob's new rou...

Description 

Sit start with left on pinch with thumb catch, right on undercling. Work out dark left facing arete, while slapping up white right facing arete. Top out like a boss

Location 

coming out of cave as you walk up.... left of the V11+? project

Protection 

pad under and one on slab to left or good spot so you don't crack the back of your skull.


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By marctroob
Apr 14, 2012

felt like V4-V6... i guess it felt harder than Temperance? Give it a go and let us know.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 14, 2012

I'm thinking on the harder side of that range, though I have only done the stand version so far. It seems quite a bit harder than Temperance to me, though if you are a big compression guy it may not... a really fun burly problem. Nice job, Marc.
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
May 12, 2015
rating: V5+ 6C+

VERY cool line. This definitely needs to be promoted/hyped more because IMO its one of the best 5's in RI.

Just to clarify, the project next to it starts on the right hand pinch/ledge of porcelain hook slide and goes up right into some microscopic crimp undercling?
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 12, 2015

The front face project
The front face project
By Dana Seaton
May 13, 2015

its worth noting maxx that the stand start is also undone to the project.
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
May 13, 2015

Yup, the starting traverse is not very tough, just starts the pump. The hard part is in the middle, the transition onto the lower angle face.
By MaxMonn
From: Providence, RI
May 31, 2015
rating: V5+ 6C+

Thanks Mark and Dana! The move up to that crimpy undercling seems wicked heinous. Overall I wasn't too psyched about the line. Seems hard but not necessarily fun or inspiring especially when seated right next to PHS. Oh well, maybe next time I'm down that way I'll give it a few burns. Thanks for the schematic!
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