Popular Demand 5.10c
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | Alan Nelson |
| Submitted By: | Pinklebear on Nov 29, 2001 |
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Popular Demand at the Wasteland, Rifle.
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Description This is the easiest route at the Wasteland and the furthest left. It's basically a 5.10 version of Community Service with slightly sketchier rock, but it makes for a decent outing nevertheless.
While the bolt line punches straight up, you're better off either staying slightly to the left or the right most of the way. At the last couple of bolts, you can either stay right in a funky corner or move left onto the face, which is crimpy and slightly harder.
This route has cleaned up pretty well over time, but it used to be very loose. I was climbing this route during a super-wet spell in 1997 when a TV-sized block about 15 feet to my left spontaneously detached and almost killed my belayer. Maybe the vibrations from my shitty footwork cut it loose -- I'll never know.
Anyway, just an anecdote to prove once again that stuff can and does fall off the walls at Rifle (as if the giant blocks that occasionally nail the road near the Project Wall weren't warning enough!).
Protection 10 draws or so.
| Comments on Popular Demand |
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By Peter Beal
From: Boulder Colorado
Dec 14, 2001
| This route won't ever get called 5.9. |
By Tom C
Apr 26, 2006
| 10a. 9- for Rifle. A stellar moderate line 3 stars for sure on this journey of a climb that moves from dihedrals to cracks to face. |
By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jul 3, 2007
| This line would be much better if you didn't have to risk ground fall at the third bolt. Also, it felt like I was always climbing too far to one side of the bolts. If bolted better, this line could be as good as PMS and PMT. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jun 14, 2010
| I would also agree Aeon. If this route were ever to be rebolted, the bolts could be moved left for the 5.10 route and then a line established using part of this route that runs on the right & with some perhaps closer bolting at the 30' level afford a 5.11 route that would be pretty good. |
By BJ Sbarra
From: Carbondale, CO
Aug 22, 2010
rating: 5.10c
| This route was rebolted today as part of the Rifle Cleanup, it should now be much more enjoyable. |
By Pascal Ripoche
From: Pittsburgh PA
Mar 4, 2011
rating: 5.10c
| As it stands now, I felt secure all the way up with some nice moves from crack to face to corner. |
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