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Tony Bubb waits in no lines for 'Popular Demand'(1...
This climb is the fifth from the right on the wall, past a route on the junky-looking blunt arete and the climbs Apostasy
, and unknown 5.10, and Dirtbag
Descend 150 meters from the parking lot to the wall and walk to a line of bolts perhaps 9 meters left or the right-hand edge of the main buttress. Although the line is somewhat squeezed between Dirtbag and Tombstone Bullets, which preceded it by some years, the climbing is reasonably good. You just have to ignore the bolts and holds on T.B. which you could nearly clip.
A slightly powerful crux gets you off of the ground (10a?) and moving up easier climbing for 7 meters to a more blank area of the wall. This crux (10c) can be avoided by stepping left or right to one of the routes it is squeezed between if you like. Then the climb ascends to a final crux near the top (10a), just before the chain anchors. The line has 5 or 6 bolts leading to chains up top. I found this route just a little more difficult than Dirtbag (10a).
A rack of draws, plus something up top for the chain anchor.
By Steve Bachmeier
Dec 1, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Not a 10c, more like an 11a.