|376 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 250 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.8- [details]|
|FA: ||Bradley White and Michael, then with Anders Kressy, 2000|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||bradley white on Jun 23, 2009|
Scanned photo 2002. Top of Pop's. so far. Cuts acr...
Michael and I started this climb up the 'Duet Aręte' corner crack (5.8) on the right wall besides the giant dike fissure called Quartet. I led climb and moved up and left away from Duet Aręte after the corner (5-6). Then more moves up into a long corner groove. I put in a small angle piton and some small stoppers below the groove corner and went up it hard (5-7) with a run out to a horizontal crack (there are foot ledges left of groove that will down grade this section to being a little easier. Then I moved down and right to create a pin belay where we rappelled.
I went back to the climb with Anders Kressy. Anders led the first pitch and I led the second. I led off left or back into the corner groove run out hard (5-7) from the belay and then moved right at the end of the corner and placed decent protection so that I could ascend up left on great rock ramp (5-8-) into the Quartet’s dike fissure. I stayed in the fissure doing moderate (5-5) climbing for 30-40ft and passed over a very odd body sized block wedged in the fissure (that was way more solid than it looked). After I hurdled the block I continued up the left side of the dike fissure and reached a belay station higher up on top of another block left of the fissure. Bad rock piton placements on this pitch. Came back next year with Craig Young and changed second pitch by moving right onto nice (5-6) face with 1 bolt and placed 1 bolt onto (5-8-) ramp. This pitch is still R rated.
Base of Quartet Dike
Trad. Rack and piton belay of first pitch bugaboos and lost arrow have been removed by me. The lead pins are still there.
Scanned photo of Anders at 1st pitch, piton belay....
BETA PHOTO: Scanned photo, Anders in the giant V groove (5.7) ...
Anders and the start is the first left facing corn...
Starting the 2nd pitch. .