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East Wall
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Pop Bottle 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Gene Drake, Mark Haymond, Larry Morris
Page Views: 3,269
Submitted By: Scott "Scoboni" Powell on Mar 12, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Pop Bottle, The Route
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

An easy 5.7 climb with the crux coming early in the first pitch at the first bulge. Protect this bulge both before and after it. While it probably can be done gracefully, most first timers on this route flop over this bulge. The key to making the first bulge easy is to find the hidden handhold. A second bulge comes shortly after the first. For the second bulge transition onto the small ledge to the left and climb around it. The rest of the first pitch is an easy 5.6 climb to a large ledge at the end of the first pitch. There is a walk off the to left of the ledge.

The second pitch is belayed from this ledge, but there are not a lot of decent cracks for protection. The second pitch is relatively easy, though the exposure on the first move and some run out add excitement. Stay to the left as you ascend or you will find yourself off route and into harder climbing. The second pitch ends at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch three is basically a scramble to the top. Itís not very exciting, but must be done if you want to reach the top. Walk off to the left.


Location 

The eastern most climb on the East Wall, look for the light colored patch of rock about one half of the way up the first pitch. (see photo)


Protection 

Small to medium cams and nuts. 2 Bolt anchor at the end of second pitch



Photos of Pop Bottle Slideshow Add Photo
Paul on the first pitch of Pop Bottle
Paul on the first pitch of Pop Bottle
Comments on Pop Bottle Add Comment
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By Frank T
Mar 27, 2009

From the photo, it appears as if it's not truly vertical? Is this the case?

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 21, 2009

Nowhere close to vertical.

By Bryan Duxbury
Sep 28, 2009

When you get to the first ledge, there is a good crack for setting up a belay right underneath the start of the next pitch. You can find it by looking for the bolt. Otherwise, there are some pretty marginal blocks to set up on.

Making it to the first bolt on the second pitch is definitely scary, but in all actuality not that hard - there are tons of great hands and feet.

During P2, you'll reach a big, comfy ledge. This is where I expected the bolts to be, but they're actually at least 40 feet higher and to the right. There are actually 3 bolts at the end of P2 - one old 1/4 incher and two newer bolts. I clipped all three because the hangers on newer bolts were loose, though the bolts themselves seemed bomber.

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

I think it's kind of a pile with one move on it.

By SKI
From: Portlandia, OR
Sep 20, 2010

The bouldery start of the second pitch was really fun, pretty wild. The wideish crux on the first pitch pro's very well. You get a good look at Haystack's roof from this guy.

By mattymck
From: Rocklin, Ca
Jun 20, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I don't want to be contrary to the person who listed the route, but if you feel the first pitch is the crux and the route is 5.7 I think you are maybe off route or something. The first pitch is a cruise. The moves around the bolt on P2 are the crux and go as a bouldery 5.6, which means hard for 5.6. Pretty good, and easiest route on the east face.

By Brad Allender
From: Alameda, CA
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

The guidebook mentions not leaving your pack on the ground or else risk having a squirrel chew through your bag. Heed this warning even if you don't have food in your bag. Don't learn the hard way like we did!