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Poor Man's P Crack 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Josh Moore, Ken Klis, Aaron Stireman
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 510
Submitted By: j moore on Feb 11, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Poor Man's P-Crack?

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Description 

Crux is getting over the "tooth" like feature, well protected move. A second pitch to rusty's cave last pIece is a shallow red camalot.
A 60 meter rope will get you all the way to the round with one rap.
Good route high up on the p wall with a cool view of downtown and the hikers trail. Top of pitch is a little slick and full of lichen (what isn't) but relatively easy.


Location 

p wall, take rusty's to the cave then continue up and slightly right. this is a continuation of rustys cave and can all be done in one pitch with a long rap.


Protection 

quick draws and a red camalot or equivalent.



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Poor Man's P-Crack & Variation? Where are the bolts?
BETA PHOTO: Poor Man's P-Crack & Variation? Where are the bolt...
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By John Knight
Feb 23, 2013

This "new route" sounds like it might be Biemer's Trough or Energy Crisis. Download the old Gulyash Guide here - 1986 Pete Gulyash Guide - Off the Wall

I may be wrong.

By j moore
From: Santa Maria
Feb 25, 2013

John, definitely not energy crisis or biemers...climb it and check it out for yourself, it goes out and right out of the cave and the routes you are suggesting look like they go out and slightly left. in between energy crisis and biemers trough on the topo you provided via pete gulyash's guide.

By David Delkeskamp
Apr 29, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Fun route, beautiful setting.

By John Knight
May 17, 2013

Can someone draw a topo for this route and the variation? I'm a bit confused as to where it goes. I would like to add it to the e-Guide. Check out the photos I posted and let me know if it looks right. Thanks, John