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Climb the route Rusty's Cave but at the last bolt go straight up rather than traversing left to the anchor. A 3.5 camalot (or equivalent) can be placed here and leads you to the first bolt of Poor Mans P Crack and the rest of this (variation) route. Slings on most if not all pieces, including a few double slings, straighten out the line and reduce the drag. Lower off with a 70m; with a 60m you will most likely have to rap to the Rusty's Cave anchor. The charm of this climb is it's length and it's mix of trad and sport.
Trad pro on rusty's and draws on PMPC. Extend everything with slings.
|By j moore|
From: Santa Maria
Jun 1, 2013
this 'variation' was led by me days after i did the FA on Poor Mans P Crack. i didnt feel it was a different route because there is only one move different, where you go up instead of the cave anchors.
|By David Delkeskamp|
Sep 1, 2013
Hey j moore, good on you. Connecting Rusy's to poor mans p and bypassing the poor mans p anchors makes for a great pitch. Trad, sport, relatively long, great position, and you can lower off with a single 70m rope. I hope people learn about it and climb it. Shall I take down the page, change the fa info to you and leave the page, or something else? Thanks, DD