Pool of Blood 

Just did this last night. Great climb! Definitely long runners, and more than one #3 Camalot. The Pool of Blood crack is beautiful, but watch for loose junk in Duh Dihedral.

This route can be finished directly from the top of the flake to the tree on some small holds and seams. This is probably 5.11- and there really is no gear, so a TR is advisable. (Bubb, Donson, Bushey Winter Y2K)

In Ament's guide "Eldorado" (published "75) there's a picture of Ament on the first ascent leading it with totally natural pro a la the Brits. He carried up chockstones, slung them with webbing and climbed on. Not having the right size at one point, he sent down the rope for a few more rocks and there's a picture of him hauling them up. When Mark Willford (maybe 15 at the time) and I saw the picture, it was his idea to try the same thing; no nuts only chockstones and we did it! He led, (one of his first leads) and I just kept tossing stones up to him! At the time we all had a little pool going as to how long he was going to live. I guess we all lost :)!

This is fun route up two beautiful flakes. The first one more offwidth and much wider and the second one about 2" wide all the way. Both slope up and out. I felt the second flake is the harder of the two, because the adjacent wall to the left is basically blank and the other side of the flake is featureless as well. Its inverted crack climbing to the ledge. Jamarouski! A fun TR after Du Dihedral, well worth the effort.

Fun route- although short it was actually quite challenging!! I'm still new to leading 5.9, so when I followed this I had to imagine what the lead was like, and personally I'm glad he did it and not me!! Both sections of the flake are awkward and hard to lay back- but were easy to protect. It is definitely harder than it appears to be from the ground!

#3 Camalots. The anchor at the top of 'Duh Dihedral' needs to be looked at. The left bolt needs to be tightened, as I recently discovered while hanging from the anchor.

This is an exciting 5.9 lead. The gear is bomber, but it is pumpy (at least to me) so you really can't place too much. The 2 crux sections are followed by good rests. Even though this route is fairly short it is well worth doing despite the rope drag. Enjoy!

I followed this route yesterday. Pretty beefy for a 9, I'd say. This route is all about brute force, there is no delicate foot work to be done. For me, it was more about the upper body pulling you over each of the flakes than anything. I tried to use good foot work, but that didn't seem to work very well :).

I couldn't place anything larger then 3 inches. There was no real offwidth, just hands to wide hands. Pretty unique line to the area. Well worth doing, if in passing.

A #4 Camalot (old size) fits nicely at the first bulge.

Piece-o-crap.

BLOODY FIST JAMS.

This climb is short, but can be deceptively awkward for a beginner leader. The crack behind the flake is slippery, and slightly flaring, Indian Creekish, 5.9 off-hands, so be solid at the grade. Use slings on your 3" Camalots on the wide flake section, or they will walk when you traverse over to the Duh Dihedral.

Dear community,

I am beginner climber and I left a #3 Cam 20 feet up on the route Pool of Blood. It was impossible for me to remove.

I am new to the community and would like to offer a beer to any friendly climber who can retrieve it.

thank you so much,
Juan Lopez

Hey Juan,

I tried getting your #3 out of there. I even rappelled in to try and unstick it as well. I got nice and bloody in the process. I would think you need a nut tool taped to a nice stout stick, another nut tool, and a third hand. Good luck!

I thought this climb was great. It would get 4 stars from Wolverine pub. in the Red or New.