Climb the excellent, short but sustained 5.9 hand crack to 2-bolt anchor. Either rap (~60') or continue up off-width slot (5.10b).
The trail up to Reynolds Hill will put you pretty much directly under the Climb and Punishment alcove. Go left, hopping and ducking around boulders, moving pretty much uphill. Keep hiking until you see an obvious clean right-facing dihedral with a hand crack, a bolted anchor, and a flaring OW above the anchor. This is your climb. Have fun.
Hand-size cams plus larger gear if you opt to not bail out at the anchors.
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 17, 2002
The first pitch is very cool and moderate. It has wide secitons that can be skipped to good jams if you look for them. On the second pitch you will need a couple #3 cams at the start and a #3.5 and a #4. I also used a #4.5 in a wide pod but a #5 would have been better. Yes, I did sew it up. I did so because a fall would crash you into your belayer. You can avoid this if you do it as one pitch. Be very careful of the loose blocks at the top. Knee pads were nice on this one.casey bernal
|By Steve Matous|
Oct 12, 2010
2nd pitch FFA by Gary Issacs mid 1970s, 1st ptich was climbed alone before that.
|By Brian Scoggins|
From: Eugene, OR
Jul 31, 2011
For the first pitch, I did well with a set from #0.75 c4 to #4 c4 with triples in the #3, and an old-style #4 Camalot. Also, there's a fixed nut above the jug that was too deep to clip on the way up, and I forgot to clean on the way down.
|By Alex Charmoz|
From: Fairfield, CT
Jul 3, 2013
Great flaring crack - P1 takes 0.75 up to 5 (optional), can also be climbed with large nuts and medium hexes. Fun and secluded! We got charged by cows on the approach.
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 7, 2013
Wasn't secluded on the Monday holiday we went on. There was a large group like ours there - 5 people or so. Anywho...
I thought this was a fabulous climb for being outside of the creek. My only complaints are the wider section up above - pretty frustrating and that it's been climbed a lot resulting in a pretty chalky slightly greasy crack. Don't let that stop you though!