|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches|
|Original:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b R [details]|
|FA:||H. & E. Laeger|
|Submitted By:||Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2006|
|Comments on Poof||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Kurt Burt
Jul 23, 2009
|I think the R rating is unwarranted, same with the 5.7+, this was my first route in the Needles I am far from a strong climber. First pitch great gear 5.6 to the tree, second 5.7 don't go right off the belay just climb straight up above the tree (5.5) to the bolt then easy climbing left, some weird gear (I doubled up makes it bomber) make a couple 5.7 slab moves to a small ledge, third climb left (5.6) to one or two moves of 5.7 traverse back right then to the top. We didn't summit to the watch tower just walked off with some min. difficulty down climbing (no need to rap) fun intro we only had a few hours so it was way convenient.|
By JJ Schlick
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 1, 2010
|A consistent route for the grade, and I think the R should stand. Good beta climbing straight up the face from the tree on the second pitch. Belay directly below the arch at the top of the second pitch with small/medium cams, and knobs for your feet (this is 10 feet above the 1' ledge. Exciting for the grade if you don't slab climb much...|
By Keri B
Sep 23, 2014
|2nd and 3rd pitches are definitely R. There are two options on the step-up on the 3rd pitch both the more obvious one with a big jug and a smaller undercling out left that can be protected with a purple C3 (and was more suitable for short people). Take the middle crack on the face above up to the alcove. Left crack is full of loose rocks and no gear and the horizontal crack peters out onto a slabby face.|
By Allison Boyle
Jun 29, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
First, I borrowed the photo above, for beta description. I added in the blue line. This climbed really well and had a bunch of fun moves on it, however, we don't usually seek out rated R climbs and this definitely had potential for bad falls if you messed up.
pitch 1) straight forward, easily protected to the tree belay.
pitch 2) about a 30 ft. slabby runout to the first bolt, but it's all positive. After the bolt, the climbing remains positive until the last few crux moves, but not that bad.
pitch 3) We went out left to another crack before heading up the face (See blue line in picture). Pitch 3 felt run out and had sketchy placements almost the entire pitch. Not to mention the bold move over the lip (although fun, and interesting boulder move) was not protected well and could be dangerous. We belayed at the horizontal crack right above the slab portion past the lip.
pitch 4) nice vertical crack up to the top
We didn't do the offwidth pitch. When looking at the Tower you can find the rapel sling/ring to the left side of the tower, lower, down on the slab. We were able to do 1 rapel with a 70m rope.