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This thing starts with real thin moves on very thin and sharp edges. Many of the edges are breaking away as you search for a way up. Since I first did this mess, there are quite a few missing holds. The crux is right at the bolt. Beyond that it eases up considerably. I did not lead this. After we did "Sicker Than Jezouin" the 5.10d dihedral just to the right (worth doing), we used the same rope TRing the route. I do not recommend it unless you care not for you finger tips. It will eat them alive!!! If there were a better "Bomb" system on this site... I would give it three "Nuclear Bombs"!!!
this route starts with a single bolt to pro. Very short route so do not take much "trad" pro... Easy to see from ground what is needed... NO anchors. Accepts medium to large pro. Medium tricams work great!!!
Dec 13, 2005
I have to agree with you locker, it is not much of a route. Like the Red Headed Stranger, I happened along while Charlie and Roy were attempting this route. I lead it. After the crux moves, it is pretty much over.
From: Westminster, CO
Dec 13, 2005
Randy wrote..."I have to agree with you Locker"... well Randy, this is positive proof that there is in fact..."A FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING!!!"...LOL!!!...
I am not much of a FA climber Randy... But there are a good few of mine that make this thing look like a "Classic"...