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West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 
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Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chip Ruckgaber
Page Views: 1,945
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Oct 23, 2009
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a great combination of Pony Express and Zip Code that keeps the grade to 5.9. It includes a wild traverse to link the two pitches. One of the better and longer 5.9 pitches on the West Ridge.


Location 

Climb the first pitch of Pony Express up to the small, right-facing corner near the top of the pitch. Instead of traversing right to the anchors make a wild hand traverse to the LEFT along a big flake. The flake is solid. This will take you into Zip Code just above its crux move. Now finish on the great upper part of Zip Code. There is a fixed anchor at the top of the pitch. Rappel down the upper pitch of Pony Express to the bolted anchor above Mescaline. One more rap from here to the ground. Single 60m rope required.


Protection 

RPs up to a #2 Camalot. Good protection.



Comments on Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Oct 24, 2009

Never done that but sounds like a really interesting climb, because Zipcode is so good but otherwise inaccessible to the 5.9 climber. Thanks for pointing out that potential.

By s.kimball
Jan 19, 2010

Wonderful linkup, not well traveled, not crazy about the rap anchor: 1 bolt and small juniper slung with cord.

By Greg D
From: Here
Dec 9, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Excellent route. Not sure about the above comment. The route takes you right to a two bolt anchor with chains.

By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Dec 17, 2010

Anchor was just updated to two good bolts with long chains.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Dec 19, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great linkup! A single rap with a 70m rope will get you down to a nice ledge from where it is an easy downclimb to the ground.

By Aaron Lucas
Mar 15, 2011

The traverse flake can break. A section broke when I was on the traverse, but the fall is clean. Good thing I protected the traverse.

By Dave Holliday
Nov 17, 2013

In the second edition of Steve Levin's excellent guidebook to the canyon, this is called "Horse d'Oeuvre", first ascent Chip Ruckgaber.