Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barrel of Monkeys S 
Bloke On The Side T 
Bridget the Midget T 
Byway T 
Chick on the Side T 
Conversions T,TR 
Court Jester T 
Crazy Stairs T 
Curving Dihedral T 
Dandi-Line T,TR 
Dead Letter Department T 
Drug Abuse T 
Erickson's Finish T 
False Prophet T 
Fever, The T 
Going Postal T 
Good Ship Venus T 
Handcracker Direct T 
Hanging Chad T 
Heat Wave T 
Horse d'Oeuvre (aka Pony Express P1 to Zip Code) T 
Human Factor, The T 
Hyperspace Roundup T,S 
Ignominity T 
Ignore Me T 
Iron Horse T 
Knife, The T 
Lightning Bolt Crack T 
Lost in the Netherlands T 
Mail Ridge Tower Link-Up T 
Mail Ridge, The T 
Mesca-Line T 
Muscle and Hate T 
Pluto T 
Pony Express T 
Pony Express, Briggs' Variation T 
Practice Climb 101 T 
Practice Wall T 
Prison Sex T 
Pygmy Pony T 
Quick Silver T 
Quicksand T 
Quiet Desperation T 
Reckoning T,S 
Rhombohedral T 
Rope to Ruin T 
Seemingly Innocent T 
Side Wall, The T 
Sister Morphine T,TR 
Sooberb T 
Sooberb Lite T 
Sundial T 
Sword Of Damocles T 
Thin Ice T,TR 
Think Quickly T 
Unbroken Chain T 
variation to Mail Ridge T,TR 
Warp Drive Overload S 
Who's Holding T 
Wind Tunnel T 
Zeros and Ones T 

Pony Express, Briggs' Variation 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Roger Briggs
Page Views: 1,097
Submitted By: adam brink on Mar 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

2016 Closure on Shirt Tail Peak Effective March 11,2016 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

While this is a variation because the other Pony Express was done first, this is actually the direct line. Do Pony Express through the first pitch and into the second pitch. Where the climbing gets hard and Pony Express traverses left into the crack and arete, keep going straight up. This is the pure dihedral line straight up and adds some very technical stemming/palming moves.

Think of the first pitch of Aerial Book but harder. My guess is that Roger Briggs was doing yoga when he did the FA of this. Stretch before you try this.

You can link Iron Horse into this for one stellar 130 foot pitch of 5.11 climbing. Go do it!

Location 

Climb straight up Pony Express but don't traverse left to the arete. Climb up the wicked, stemming dihedral.

Protection 

All the regular stuff for Pony Express but some much smaller gear for the crux.


Comments on Pony Express, Briggs' Variation Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 1, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13

This is the variation mentioned in the Pony Express Page:
"Going directly up the corner the whole way is thin stemming (5.11d) and is not as well protected."
I don't think that the gear is bad per se, but it is not always where you'd want it, nor bomber.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!