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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Dan Flynn on Dec 13, 2011

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Schattejard 8a.

Description 

A hugely popular sport climbing spot, with over a hundred pitches of moderate 'plaisir' (3c-6b) climbing just on the giant granite dome, split by several ledges for easy mixing and matching. The Settore Est has another 40+ climbs, with the truly fun 5c's and some stunning, steep hardcore climbs. 50m ropes sufficient for almost all climbs.

Topo from an old SAC pdf, via chmoser.ch.


Getting There 

Very easy access from Locarno, 15 min bus or short train ride to the town of Ponte Brolla, then easy walk up to the cliff. Approach to the Settore Est goes pst several magical grottos, the Sunday cave hang-outs for families in the area. Oh, and through some palm tree stands, too. I repeat, palm trees. In Switzerland.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Ponte Brolla:
La Fessura 5b   5.8     Trad, Sport, 80 feet   Settore Est
Alhambra 6b+   5.10c/d     Sport, 18 pitches, 1800 feet, Grade IV   Monte Garzo
Maggialore 6b+   5.10d     Sport, 11 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV   Monte Garzo
The Crew 69 6b+   5.10d     Sport, 95 feet   Settore Est
Vergessene Welten 6c   5.11a     Sport, 75 feet   Settore Est
Lucertola 6c   5.11a/b     Sport, 12 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV   Monte Garzo
Occidente 7a+   5.12a     Sport, 80 feet   Settore Est
Browse More Classics in Ponte Brolla

Featured Route For Ponte Brolla
Morning light on la fessura

La Fessura 5b 5.8  International : Europe : ... : Settore Est
5b Ah. Pure fun! Easily protectable as a gear route (keep those trad skills sharp in this land of bolts). Follow la fessura up to anchor shared with Nina....[more]   Browse More Classics in International