The town of Cortina d'Ampezzo is dominated on it's north side by the Pomagagnon Group. Access to this fine series of summits is easy from this superb valley base, which is well endowed with lodging and many fine eating establishments.
The Group runs on a West to East direction, beginning on the west edge with Punta Fiames, Punta della Croce, and Campinile Dimai; a central portion contains the summits of Croda Longes, Croda Pomagagnon, Testa del Bartoldo, and Costa del Bartoldo; after another Forcella (gap), the summits resume with Punta Cestelis and Punta Erbing.
The route follows several easy pitches of the Via Commune , until the ledge system for a rising traverse across the face to the base of the Arete becomes obvious. The angle steepens and climbing becomes somewhat more challenging, but never extreme. The "crux" involves a series of moves around a corner onto the East face where a wide crack is surmounted back onto the arete proper. This is a leaning offwidth that is liberally supplied with pitons, and may approach 5.8 in difficulty. The options be...[more]Browse More Classics in International