|Type:||Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||P. Zoller & E. McKigney,|
|Submitted By:||Tony B on Aug 12, 2002|
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|Show which comments —
By Ernie Port
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 4, 2002
|There's good crack at the base of the roof and positive holds out to the edge of the roof. Pulled this off on TR by swinging the right foot out and up onto a small ledge just past the middle of the roof, then pushed off opposing with the right hand over the left shoulder shifting my weight into the rock using the corner of a small block, then switching hands, reached again with the right hand for the corner of another small block higher. As Tony mentions your going from a horizontal position back to standing up vertical. Very weird move. Remember bruising the inside of my calf as it passed over the 1st bolt (as it protrudes about 2") doing the move.|
Oct 11, 2005
|I'd agree with 2 stars and 11b (I'm 6'2). This is a really cool climb - pumpy and weird - once you get it done it's not too bad the second time 'round. . . though going for the crux move out of the roof is a bit intimidating.|
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
|WOW! actually not so wow, I should have known I would get put in my place once again by the only honest ratings in Boulder Canyon! Castle Rock is keepin' it real Son.|
Sep 20, 2007
The climbing above the roof, in my opinion isn't all that great. The crux moves are fun.
It is possible to get some psychological pro in the wet crack before you clip the first bolt, but don't hope for much, and you would want to back clean it after clipping the bolt. You know how it is when your intimidated, you think weird things...ha.
For a TR, climb the first pitch of the west face and move right at the top.
It is possible to continue on to climb the Big Deal Pinnacle. I remember it being a bit crumbly and run out. Then, from there you could finish with the west face.
I wouldn't do it again.
By Luke Childers
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
|Fun roof moves that are over all to soon. The upper section of climbing after the roof is less than desired and has some lose rock!!! However, it's still fun and I would probably do it again, but it would not be my first choice.|
Jul 3, 2013
|This morning the foothold under the first bolt fell as I was following a friend up the route. We didn't try it a second time, but it looks like a significant change to the climb.|
By Ethan Printy
Jul 12, 2013
|Climbed this route this morning without the "broken foothold". I don't know how the climb was before, but it did not feel significantly harder than 11b/c now. I did use other beta than described above. Instead of using the hold I just used the small "dish" to the right of the bolt.|
By Scott Ferguson 1
From: Denver Colorado
Oct 12, 2015
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
|Attempted to top-rope this route on Saturday after leading the 5.6 pitch to the left. The remnants of the missing feature that fell off in 2013 is quite obvious to spot as a brown spot is left in its wake. Without this hold, the route is very difficult, and none of our team could get through the roof boulder problem. There seems to be a way to climb up and left out onto two horn-like features before launching to a prominent hold out towards the second bolt. We were too sauced to make the move though. Be careful of loose rock on the slab above the roof. I've seen large chunks come crashing down off of this area.|