2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
The route lies on the west end of Castle Rock, Northwest of Curving Crack and Skunk Crack by some 50+ feet. The route is easily found by locating a very large roof which hangs 30' above the ground, and 50+ feet below the right-most of two Doctor-Seuss-looking pine trees. There are 3 bolts on the face above the roof.
Climb a left-facing open book to the left hand edge of the roof, then lock off hard in a few horizontals, get your body horizontal, then push hard with the feet to move out right the the center of the roof. You will grasp a good square hold out above, from which you can clip the first bolt. Match on this edge, flip though to horizontal and then head back left with a very big move to a good jug. This can be done statically or dynamically. Either way it is another big move. Match again and once more flip though to face right again. Set some feet and move up before reaching high right to a bulbous side-pull. You can now clip the second bolt. Head up the face for an anchor on the tree, passing one more bolt along the way. You can rap, but not lower from this due to drag.
Tall people will find that this route is appropriately graded. Steel shoulders and height are the keys here. Shorter people will find the route to be massively sandbagged (5.12+?) I tried to do the route straight-through on TR without the back and forth and found it utterly impossible to even dog my way up it without bumping left to the jugs in the roof. In hindsight, the wandering line is a great gymnastic and mental workout which seems out-of-line but in effect never takes you far from the line of protection.
The protection depends on how Ballsy you are. You could do this on nothing but the 3 bolts if you wanted to commit to that, but as the books suggest, gear to about 2" seems like a good idea.
The good horizontal coming out of the big roof before the crux crackles a little when you yard on it, so it seems it may one day blow out. You would not want to be 30' off the deck and horizontal and blow that hold before you clip the first bolt.
One can also get to the tree and rap anchor above by way of a traverse from above the West Face, which is 5.5, and set a TR from there.
There's good crack at the base of the roof and positive holds out to the edge of the roof. Pulled this off on TR by swinging the right foot out and up onto a small ledge just past the middle of the roof, then pushed off opposing with the right hand over the left shoulder shifting my weight into the rock using the corner of a small block, then switching hands, reached again with the right hand for the corner of another small block higher. As Tony mentions your going from a horizontal position back to standing up vertical. Very weird move. Remember bruising the inside of my calf as it passed over the 1st bolt (as it protrudes about 2") doing the move.
I'd agree with 2 stars and 11b (I'm 6'2). This is a really cool climb - pumpy and weird - once you get it done it's not too bad the second time 'round. . . though going for the crux move out of the roof is a bit intimidating.
The climbing above the roof, in my opinion isn't all that great. The crux moves are fun.
It is possible to get some psychological pro in the wet crack before you clip the first bolt, but don't hope for much, and you would want to back clean it after clipping the bolt. You know how it is when your intimidated, you think weird things...ha.
For a TR, climb the first pitch of the west face and move right at the top.
It is possible to continue on to climb the Big Deal Pinnacle. I remember it being a bit crumbly and run out. Then, from there you could finish with the west face.
Fun roof moves that are over all to soon. The upper section of climbing after the roof is less than desired and has some lose rock!!! However, it's still fun and I would probably do it again, but it would not be my first choice.
Climbed this route this morning without the "broken foothold". I don't know how the climb was before, but it did not feel significantly harder than 11b/c now. I did use other beta than described above. Instead of using the hold I just used the small "dish" to the right of the bolt.