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The Zoids
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Antithesis T,TR 
Bonzoid Corner TR 
Caucasoid Corner TR 
Caucasoid Crack S 
Caucasoid Wall TR 
Face Full o' Bush T,TR 
Fall is in the Air T 
Fat Finger Frenzy T,TR 
Lick Crack T,TR 
New Shoes TR 
Peeled and Deveined TR 
Petting Zoo TR 
Poloroid S 
Sedated Racoon TR 
Warren Piece TR 
Young Wretches TR 

Poloroid 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: [R Hanson TR '86, '89 led T Hanson & S Stills]
Page Views: 430
Submitted By: Dan Mottinger on Apr 28, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Dan Howell on the arete.

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Description 

In the middle of the Zoids, between the Falls Wall and the Projects, is a bolted arete.

The climb starts off on a lower tier left of the arete, leading to a ledge and the arete. The crux of this route is getting to the first big ledge/ clipping the first bolt. The start is a good boulder problem in itself leading to easier climbing on the arete with obscure holds.

Protection 

7 QDs. The two bolt anchor on top is missing hangers, so the alternatives are to set up an anchor on top with or without the last bolt. A large sling is useful for the top anchor.


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Poloroid.
BETA PHOTO: Poloroid.
TJ on Polaroid.
TJ on Polaroid.

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By Anonymous Coward
Nov 30, 2003

Begin with the left hand in one of the many holes at the bottom. Step up. Grap the holey pocket under the small crack with your right hand. Catch the highest hole on the left with you lefty and the right goes to the cracky, sidepullish, crappy hold. If you're 6' tall, you should be able to hit the top with your left, it's now time to clip, after clipping reach for the top with your right hand, but wait, mind the cactus. Shimmy up onto the ledge and stand up. Congrats, you've passed the crux, and you're now onto fun climbing. Wrap your left hand around the cobble and put your right foot on the arete behind you. This is personally my favorite move on this route. After this move, you're on the second ledge, and the arete is the only thing left. There's plenty of good holds but no anchors, so you should either top out or sling it. You're done, great job!
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Nov 17, 2008

Fun. The first bolt is about 15 ft up and past the crux. and anchor can be made with a few long sligs (we used cordalettes) a pink tricam, and some #1 to 2 Camalots.
By TJ Quirk
From: Parker, CO
Mar 28, 2010

The first bolt is a bit high for my taste, and you've got to commit through the crux to get to it. Top bolt looks freaky- the sleeve sticks out about an inch from the rock. And both anchor bolts are long since cut, so plan to top out and bring gear for a top rope.

Fun climb!
By Kegan Minock
From: colorado springs
May 3, 2010

Yeah, I was on this route yesterday. It was crazy! Tom's guidebook said it was 6 draws, so I took 6 up with me only to find I was one short! and the last bolt is pretty sketchy. It's starting to get loose!
By Jon Solove
From: Denver, CO
May 11, 2010

Climbed this route yesterday and the top and 2nd to top bolts seemed proper sketchy - both wiggled a bit. Yikes.