Polly's Crack 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8+ [details] |
| FA: | Polly Hessing, 1971 ? |
| Season: | year round |
| Submitted By: | Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007 |
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Jammin' and stemmin' gets it done.
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Description A sweet dihedral/open book crack route. Nice fingers and hands with enjoyable stemming all the way. Start up less than desirable rock and pull a tough bulge/roof to get established in the corner. Stem and jam your way up.
Location The obvious corner right of Way Beyond Zebra. Shown as route number 16 on the Overlook route topo photo.
Protection Small to large nuts and cams. Big stuff at top just before the chain anchors. Can be set as TR from the top.
Cody getting established in the crack. Fingers?? D...
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| Comments on Polly's Crack |
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By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Mar 4, 2009
rating: 5.8+
| Take a #4 (or #5?) or be prepared for a decent run out to the anchor bolts. Although the terrain is pretty easy, I wouldn't want to take a big fall in a corner that tight.
Sustained 5.8 from the word go, with fun stemming and jamming and great pro. One of the best cracks at the grade in White Rock, IMO. |
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Mar 5, 2009
rating: 5.8
| And if you're not comfortable with that bit of runout, another option many folks take is move left and clip the anchors for Way Beyond Zebra. It'll make cleaning the gear on your way back down a little more difficult though. |
By Wa3lt
Sep 23, 2009
| Best 5.8 in White Rock, IMO. |
By henrik
Jun 28, 2010
| Found some slings at the anchors on the climb last thursday (June 24th). We meant to leave them there but not everyone knew this so they ended up in one of our bags anyway. If you know who left them there send me an email and I'll get them back to you.
internet@henriksandin.se
Cheers
HS |
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