Sweet Polly Purebred 

FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague (eedit- It sounds like Bradley White did some version of this earlier , when the big block was still there)
FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith

Jeez, I thought it protected great. I put gear in. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. I pulled a refrigerator sized block out of the alcove before climbing it.

I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better.

If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed.

Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them.

i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)...

on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)...

I was climbing at Main Cliff and I noticed that the left anchor bolt on Polly Purebread is kind of messed up. It's loose and it clearly flexes in the hole. I didn't have a wrench with me to tighten it, but I'm not sure if that would do the trick. It looks like it might need to be replaced.

Be aware when you are cleaning the anchor.

Any word on the condition of this anchor now?

I was just up on this climb on August 20 '09. The left anchor bolt is still in bad condition. I was able to EASILY wiggle the bolt up and down, and wouldnt be surprised if I could pull it with a little force. I dont think that a wrench would do any good at this point. The right anchor seemed solid. Just be aware.

The anchor bolts seemed fine last weekend.

I didn't notice any glaring problems with the anchor today, but confess I wasn't actively looking for them, not having seen this page before.

On a side note, my friend (whom I was belaying) somehow missed the bolt on the first crux, and by the time he was at the next bolt he had the rope wrapped around his leg so he would have flipped over if he fell (I yelled at him about the rope, but I didn't see the crux bolt either). We didn't realize there was another bolt there until he finished the climb.

I guess the take-home message is that if Polly seems run-out, you're doing something wrong.

I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.

More common is to fall while trying to get into the notch, which is a perfectly clean fall. Wedging yourself into the notch will give you a comfortable no hands rest. It's also quite easy to use a knee bar in that area too. I thought protection was right where you'd want it.

Both anchors seem fine today.
Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route.