Sweet Polly Purebred
|2,773 page views|
|Type: ||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Consensus: ||5.10b/c [details]|
|FA: ||Chris Smith, as a sport route 2005. Parts were climbed previously by others using trad gear and pins|
|Submitted By: ||Jay Knower on Oct 23, 2006|
Leesa negotiating the hanging corner on a mostly d...
Polly Purebred used to be a runout and neglected trad climb until a retrobolting modernized it a few years ago. It's proximity to the most popular 5.10 at Rumney (Underdog) guarantees heavy traffic.
Easy juggy climbing leads to a rest ledge. Put a long draw on the bolt off the ledge and launch into the overhanging crux (previously "protected" by a shady pin). This crux can be baffling until the correct sequence is found. Layback up the wonderful hanging corner. Slabby moves give way to another crux below the anchors.
Welcome to the 21st century Polly, we're all glad you're here.
Yea, this route is fun! Go Nick
Brian sticking the fingerlock on the lower crux......
Brian Winslow making the clip before the steep par...
Brian takes his well deserved rest in the nook on ...
Blake on Polly purebred
RB some mo'.
nicole in the nice lock
jeff in the funkiness up high on the route
jeff post crux on polly
|Comments on Sweet Polly Purebred
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Nov 9, 2006
FA trad version (alternative start to Underdog): Mark Sprague (eedit- It sounds like Bradley White did some version of this earlier , when the big block was still there)
FA sport version (added the top): Chris Smith
Jeez, I thought it protected great. I put gear in. The bolts are very welcome though, especially as you can now do the top. I pulled a refrigerator sized block out of the alcove before climbing it.
|By L. Hamilton|
Nov 10, 2006
I agree, the old trad version had fine protection, and was "something different" amidst all the clip-ups. On the other hand, the new bolted finish is better.
If Rumney were a less specialized area that could still tolerate mixed routes, Polly Purebred might have been a good one: bolts where needed, especially on the finish, but no retrobolts at the overhang where solid trad gear can be placed.
Some of the other old moderates would likewise be more fun, but not necessarily more dangerous, if you had to carry and place a bit of gear to lead them.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 29, 2008
i like that it is now a nice independant line that gives me another warm up... and it does get me quite warm... i too would be happy to place some gear (people who know me know i love placing gear)...
on a side note this line feels 5.10c to me most days (not the 10b the guide book suggests)...
|By Jay Knower|
From: Plymouth, NH
Feb 8, 2009
I was climbing at Main Cliff and I noticed that the left anchor bolt on Polly Purebread is kind of messed up. It's loose and it clearly flexes in the hole. I didn't have a wrench with me to tighten it, but I'm not sure if that would do the trick. It looks like it might need to be replaced.
Be aware when you are cleaning the anchor.
From: plymouth, nh
Jun 13, 2009
Any word on the condition of this anchor now?
Aug 24, 2009
I was just up on this climb on August 20 '09. The left anchor bolt is still in bad condition. I was able to EASILY wiggle the bolt up and down, and wouldnt be surprised if I could pull it with a little force. I dont think that a wrench would do any good at this point. The right anchor seemed solid. Just be aware.
|By M Sprague|
From: New England
Apr 5, 2010
The anchor bolts seemed fine last weekend.
|By Todd Anderson|
Jun 6, 2011
I didn't notice any glaring problems with the anchor today, but confess I wasn't actively looking for them, not having seen this page before.
On a side note, my friend (whom I was belaying) somehow missed the bolt on the first crux, and by the time he was at the next bolt he had the rope wrapped around his leg so he would have flipped over if he fell (I yelled at him about the rope, but I didn't see the crux bolt either). We didn't realize there was another bolt there until he finished the climb.
I guess the take-home message is that if Polly seems run-out, you're doing something wrong.
|By Matt Wilson|
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 24, 2012
I felt like this was runout at the crux... I ended up climbing in to the nook rest above the crux, terribly out of breath (apparently I don't breath when I climb hard), and then reaching around the corner to clip my next bolt. I don't even want to think about the fall that would have been had I stayed out of the nook and fell at the next clip.... But then again, I am a giant pansy when I lead, so maybe it's not really run out.
|By Jeffrey LeCours|
From: New Hampshire
Sep 24, 2012
More common is to fall while trying to get into the notch, which is a perfectly clean fall. Wedging yourself into the notch will give you a comfortable no hands rest. It's also quite easy to use a knee bar in that area too. I thought protection was right where you'd want it.
|By S. Neoh|
May 4, 2013
Both anchors seem fine today.
Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route.