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poll: Curvaceous, CCC, EDIT: bolt now moved.
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Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
i am willing to move the infamous misplaced bolt on Curvaceous (the one at the first bulge) that is a hard clip. I wanted to first get community opinions on it. My intention would be to move it a bit right, in line of the climbing moves.

thoughts?
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,116 points
Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Cocaine Corner
I vote to move it... invisible ghost
From Bailey
Joined Jan 1, 2001
621 points
Jun 22, 2009
Please move it. It's in such a bad spot that I don't even clip it anymore. Thanks for taking the initiative to make a great route safer and more fun. superjosh
Joined Nov 14, 2004
75 points
Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
bump. so far i think i have more than a dozen counts for moving it, and zero against.

cool. i will be up there today after work with my drill.
if anyone is there, would appreciate a quick ride on it. if not i will have my stick clip.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,116 points
Administrator
Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
amen, go in peace my brother. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,149 points
Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
original 5th bolt location...
Rock Climbing Photo: Curvaceous original 5th bolt location...
Curvaceous original 5th bolt location...





out with the old, in with the new...
Rock Climbing Photo: out with the old, in with the new...
out with the old, in with the new...





new 5th bolt, and patched hole.
Rock Climbing Photo: new bolt location and patched hole.
new bolt location and patched hole.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,116 points
Jun 22, 2009
I just got on curvaceous for the first time a week or so ago and definitely thought that bolt was in an akward position, thanks for the work! Jeff Young
From Bend, OR
Joined Oct 19, 2008
10 points
Jun 22, 2009
Thanks Darren for all the extra work for us all to enjoy Swavek Gaik
From Superior, CO
Joined Aug 26, 2006
14 points
Jun 22, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: J-Tree
One retro-vote in favor, thanks!

That bolt you took out looks pretty rusty, not stainless? What does that make you think of the other bolts on the route?
David Hous
From Boulder, Colorado
Joined Nov 18, 2001
190 points
Jun 23, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: Darren sticking the second crux move Photo credit:...
glad everyone agrees. let me know how the new clip works out!

David Houston wrote:
One retro-vote in favor, thanks! That bolt you took out looks pretty rusty, not stainless? What does that make you think of the other bolts on the route?

nope not stainless. every bolt in the canyon probably looks just like that. every one that i have replaced does...
and Curvaceous is only 11 years old.
Darren Mabe
From Flagstaff, AZ
Joined Dec 12, 2002
4,116 points
Administrator
Jun 23, 2009
Rock Climbing Photo: tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
hey, can you go back up there and move it down 1.3 inches, and to the right .6 inches....? thanks wiled man! slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,149 points
Jun 23, 2009
Great job!! That was on my to do list as well. I think that may have been a bolt that Alan placed on rappel sort of guessing the best spot, or the rock to the right was too chossy at the time to appear climbable.

As far as rust on bolts and hangers in the area goes, pretty much all of the ones I have taken apart have some level of rust, but never enough to really affect the strength of the steel. There were a few that still looked brand new after 20 years and some that looked like this one. There may be locations in runoff spots or places that often seep that would warrant stainless in CCC, but most of it is pretty dry. Keep in mind that when many of these routes went in a 3/8" Rawl was a vast upgrade from 1/4" buttonheads that were still commonly used.
Tzilla Rapdrilla
Joined Jan 20, 2006
1,106 points


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