Political Affair  5.10-

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet Consensus:  5.10- [details] FA:  Andy Busse & Mark Paulson New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Andy Busse on Oct 24, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

BETA PHOTO: White House Wall with Routes

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Description 

Pitch 1 (5.10- 165'): The route starts out in a series of small, short, vertical cracks in the schist band and then gains a major hand crack which widens and leads past the Chemical Wire anchor. Continue up and left past the Chemical Wire anchor and through the left bulge. After the bulge continue up the crack system past another bolt to gain an anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8 65')
Continue to follow the crack system through the wider off-width section which tapers back to hands; follow to the end of the crack and build an anchor. This is where the route has an "affair" with Political Prowess.

Pitch 3 (5.10- 70')
This is the last past pitch of Political Prowess; take a blind sloping ramp and traverse out right to gain a bolted face that leads to summit. The pitch is protected very well, except for the easy traverse.

• **BEWARE** If you should decide to rap the route vs walk-off. 2 ropes are recommended; the mid-anchors are located 29m from the summit anchors.

Location 

This is the crack system 10' right of Chemical Wire and 35' left of the 5.6 Chimney System that divides White House Wall.

Protection 

Camalots #.4-#5 x 2, Stoppers, and Micro-Stoppers.

Photos of Political Affair Slideshow

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Shannon Twomey sinking into the first pitch of "Po...