This is the next route to the right of "fingers". The start is the crux, a very polished, very shallow, flaring crack. Past the first ten feet the climbing eases to 5.8 with good protection.
Pro to 2"
Polished start is an understatement
|By John Ericson|
From: Murrieta, CA
Dec 31, 2011
If you are in the area, the route is worth doing for the start alone. The rest of the route is not particularly memorable. After the first six feet the route is easy and protects well. A sit start is possible if you are into that kind of thing.
From: Riverside, Ca
Mar 2, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
There is a sidepull you can use if you are doing a stand start. It makes using your feet slightly easier than just staying in the crack.
|By Jeff Botimer|
Jun 9, 2013
If you want an unusual start try running and jumping off the wall and sticking the under-cling. Definitely not a standard climbing move but a ton of fun if you can get it!