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Physical Crag
Routes Sorted
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Bacon and Ergs 
Bacon Bits 
Crown Joules 
Dyne and Dash 
EarthQuark 
Ergonomics 
Fission Chips 
Ohm on the Range 
Pole Vault 
Watts For Dinner 
Watts Left Over 

Pole Vault 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Alec Sharp, 1981(?)
Page Views: 174
Submitted By: Tony B on Jul 3, 2004
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Exiting the dihedral. Is the dead tree leaning aga...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route also lies on left-hand end of the upper right hand side of Physical Crag. To locate it first find the impressive OW, Bacon and Ergs. Walk to the left 20 or 25 meters and around to a large left-facing dihedral. An old dead tree leans against the wall to the right of this corner. Climb the face on the right and sew up the crack with small nuts if possible -the rock here is not as dense as typical eldo stone and a long fall might break the edge of the crack and set your gear loose. Climb up and as the dihedral hits a narrow point, place a large cam (#3 Camalot was good) to protect the last hard move. Continue to the top & belay West of the top of the line from a few good tricams or stoppers in a crack at the back of a big boulder.

TO descend, walk across the crag to the anchors above Crown Joules and rap off. These are below the summit and although easy to get to, might be a little difficult to find.

A good brushing of lichen would probably add to the quality of the route.


Protection 

Small nuts and a few small cams plus a #1 and #3 or #3.5 Camalot. The gear is a little hard to get in good at the start and the crux might be the low-ball ankle twister. The climb is safe as you go higher.



Photos of Pole Vault Slideshow Add Photo
Ivan Rezucha tops out on Pole Vault, at the distant and peaceful Physical Crag, in Eldo. Photo by Tony Bubb, 2004.
Ivan Rezucha tops out on Pole Vault, at the distan...
Pole Vault.
Pole Vault.
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