|Type:||Trad, 10 pitches, 1100', Grade IV|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||Kris Wild and Reuben Shelton, Aug 6th 2007|
|Season:||Gulley, shady, wet early in season|
|Submitted By:||Jeremy Blumel on Aug 17, 2008|
|Comments on Polaris||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Colin Moorhead
Oct 22, 2009
Excellent, sustained route with a lot of straight in jamming. A nice change from the endless lieback treadmills off other area grade IV's.
Great Job Chris!
By Kristian Wild
Sep 23, 2012
|If you print out this great topo, the grade for p9 is missing. It is 12a|
By Alex Shainman
Jul 22, 2013
Climbed Polaris yesterday and deciding to offer some safety advisories for future ascents...
First off, this is a good line, great FA vision, challenging climbing and I imagine a monumental undertaking to prep, equip and clean. Kudos!
The exfoliated rock quality in a few places has some potential dangerousness. I will break it down and add a couple more heads-ups...
P1-3 are relatively safe. [edit 7/24/13 the fixed ropes have been removed] On pitches 1-3, a fixed line is clipped into anchor and protection bolts and only slightly in your way. On the flip side, if rappelling, I'd recommend coiling the ropes at top of P3 anchor and rapping fixed line to top of P1 anchor, then use your ropes to rap P1. P2 has a powerful crux move to devious climbing...almost as hard as P9!
[edit 7/24/13 the tree has been removed and a new first bolt added][edit (7/23/13), apparently a solution is already in the works concerning the tree/chockstone issues] P4 Classic OW: The tree stump at the start is totally bogus now. It is rotten, broken and super flexible and hard/sketchy to pass. If you blow the first few moves and/or the tree breaks, you're falling onto the anchor. If an additional bolt is not added, I think a #3 Big Bro or #6 Camalot will fit (size-wise it's thigh-jam width, for a guy). Near the top of P4 is a large slung chockstone which appears very loose and easily rotates when touched. Maybe it can't fall out but we didn't test it too much.
Except for one loose anchor bolt nut (or two, I forget) P5-8 are relatively safe without anything extraordinary to report. Pitches 6-8 have great climbing.
P9 is kinda heads-up I thought. It's the crux pitch and has totally awesome moves for sure BUT the first flake you have to yard on above the 1st bolt is quite hollow/expanding as is the rail passing the 2nd bolt. The first 3 of the 4 bolts on this pitch need to be inspected. The nut of the 3rd bolt (in the roof) is finger-loose. Sorry but I am already totally spacing out if it's the 1st or 2nd bolt, but one of them is potentially bad due to how it is wobbling in the hole, the nut is also finger-loose.
P10 is fine.
The 2nd rappel (over the crux roof), is a long one and in space and you'll need to pull into trees to get to a ledge with a yellow fixed rope-pull to get to the next rap station (not one of the belays).
In all, it's a good route with great climbing but there's some perma-choss and some bolts needing some TLC. Don't let my whining deter you! Get on up there and climb this rig!
By Sky Sjue
From: Santa Fe
Aug 25, 2013
Thanks for the great route, guys.
Based on parts of the previous comment, I'd like to add my two cents: the stump at the beginning of the OW pitch seemed sketchy when I led it July 22 or so. A TCU placement protected it well enough ( picture of TCU to protect p4/offwidth start ) but it took some shenanigans to place it. So that is a potential protection option there. No objections on my part to another bolt if the FA party decides to place one.
We walked off.
By Luke Stefurak
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 12, 2015
Wow this is an amazing route. Killer exposure, hard moves and nice bolting.
P4, The Corner, is almost fully bolted now. Bring 12 draws/slings and a .5, .75 and #1 camalot. No need for the rest it will get in your way. The wobbly chockstone with the blue sling is still there... Sketchy.
P5 The description above didn't help us, although its pretty obvious what to do. Here's my take. Walk up through the chimney to the back side of the pillar. Scrable up the back of the pillar to gain the leaning block and clip a bolt on the main wall. Mantel a ledge and climb a hands to fist crack. Clip another bolt and traverse left to the belay.
Get on this route it requires face skills and OW finesse.
Also it's possible to skip a few of the anchors when rapping with two ropes. We did a total of 7 raps.