Start on a short face below a sandy ledge. Place a small cam, (#0/1 t.c.u or similar) and crawl up on the first ledge. Several options exist here in terms of pro. Start up the conglomerate bulge, clip two bolts, and at the 2nd bolt, weave slightly left and fire the crux move. Match on a jug left of the bolt, get feet high, and lunge straight up to a right facing, sloper. These few moves check in somewhere between 10a/b. Boulder up a few moves to a ledge where several placements can be made, tricams, stoppers, etc. Finish up a 5.8 dihedral.
50 feet right of the 5.8 dihedral, just left of a pine tree. Spot 2 bolts on a bulge, about 25 feet up.
Small tricams, t.c.u's, doubles of BD .3 to .4 or similar, small stoppers. 2 bolts protect the crux. NO ANCHORS. Belay from the top.
|Comments on Polar Express
From: birmingham, al
Dec 14, 2011
Could the location instructions be any more vague???
From: The Deeper South
4 days ago
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13
Haha. Actually, as long as you know the '5.8 dihedral' is Wrangler, this is actually spot on. On the other hand, beware the sandbag.