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Steele
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Polar Express 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 65'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: D. Hemphill, A. Hamiter (2010)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 400
Submitted By: A. Hamiter on Dec 27, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Rope is on Polar Express anchors, hanging several ...

Description 

Start on a short face below a sandy ledge. Place a small cam, (#0/1 t.c.u or similar) and crawl up on the first ledge. Several options exist here in terms of pro. Start up the conglomerate bulge, clip two bolts, and at the 2nd bolt, weave slightly left and fire the crux move. Match on a jug left of the bolt, get feet high, and lunge straight up to a right facing, sloper. These few moves check in somewhere between 10a/b. Boulder up a few moves to a ledge where several placements can be made, tricams, stoppers, etc. Finish up a 5.8 dihedral.

Location 

50 feet right of the 5.8 dihedral, just left of a pine tree. Spot 2 bolts on a bulge, about 25 feet up.

Protection 

Small tricams, t.c.u's, doubles of BD .3 to .4 or similar, small stoppers. 2 bolts protect the crux. NO ANCHORS. Belay from the top.


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By bernard
From: birmingham, al
Dec 14, 2011

Could the location instructions be any more vague???