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 ADVANCED
Bear Island
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bearly Worth It T 
How Loose Is Your Goose T 
Kodiak T 
My Goose Is Loose TR 
Polar Bears in Bondage T 
Shardik T 
Shardikawoopoopie T 
Ursa Major T 
Ursa Minor T 

Polar Bears in Bondage 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Todd Swain, March 1987
Page Views: 812
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 16, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: "Polar Bears in Bondage".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

Left of "Kodiak", climb a short crack through a bulge into a scoop. Follow fun face to the top.

Protection 

Pro to 2".


Photos of Polar Bears in Bondage Slideshow Add Photo
Cali, working on the route
Cali, working on the route

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By Chris D
From: the couch
Oct 23, 2011

If you want to take the "PG" out of leading this route or Ursa Major, you can simply start in the crack on Polar Bears and when that peters out, move into the crack on Ursa Major. The routes are so close you wouldn't even need to extend your gear.

Both worthwhile routes with some thoughtful moves at the grade. The business is all down low.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Dec 29, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Small cams and/or stoppers protect the thin crack low. Gear at your feet during what is probably the crux move before reaching the horizontals. Eases as you move upwards. Lots of gear options for the anchor anywhere from .75 to 2 1/2".