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Climb up the big boulder that is leaning against the cliff to the left of the high point where it touches the face. Placing a 3 inch cam here can take a lot of the pucker out of making the first clip. Traverse left 4 or 5 feet before climbing up the face to a bulging horizontal. Climb up through a short slabby section to a roof. This is a bad place to fall. Clip the last bolt, pull the roof, and belay on any of the oak trees on the big "GT Ledge" style ledge that can let you access other climbs in the area like Peace Out, Garden of Leadin, and Jug Or Not
Depending on where you built your first belay, you may want to move it left so as to position you better for minimizing rope drag off the deck on this pitch. Climb straight up the face clipping several bolts until there are no more above you. At this point, move up high and left to the only two bolts to the anchors over the last large section of climbing. The runout is not to be underestimated, but the climbing truly is easy.
At the left side of the clearing scattered with a lot of boulders. This route starts on the big one that leans up against the cliff.
Good number of draws. You will need to build a belay after the first pitch, but the top of the second has a fixed anchor with two fat bolts.
By Dylan Randall
From: Denville, NJ
May 3, 2015
I found P1 to be varied but not exceptionally fun. However, the second pitch yielded beautiful and delicate climbing up perfect incuts.
Jun 30, 2016
Just to be clear... it sounds like there are trees at the top of P1 to build the belay? Does one need any other gear for that belay? Thanks!
By Jim Lawyer
Jul 4, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yes, trees at the top of P1.