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Royal Arches
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Poker Face 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,711
Submitted By: Colin Simon on Aug 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Description 

17 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Slab climbing the whole way on dime-sized edges with tiny crimps to help you balance. Well-protected slab training.

Location 

A few hundred feet east of the start of the Royal Arches route, in a small clearing. Roughly under the top of the 4th pitch of Royal Arches. Also check out Face Card (5.10c) just to the right.

Protection 

17 draws, plus a couple for the anchor.


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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Sep 2, 2009

Are you sure about 17 bolts on 90 ft?- probably just seven?
By TylerW
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 12, 2010

when I did it mid summer, the fixed slings at the anchor were full of mud and debris - looks like this route doesn't get done very often... which is too bad because it is an awesome route. the top half alternates between manky bolt/good bolt but luckily there are so many it doesn't really matter. crux down low getting off a stance but then sustained at 5.9-10a most of the rest of the way.
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 21, 2010

Alexey, I'm pretty sure it's 17 bolts now, but I heard it used to be 7. Definitely not spicy anymore.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 20, 2012

17 bolts, that's confirmed as of this weekend. Looks like it was retro'd. First fifteen bolts are ridiculously close to one another - clipping while the last bolt is at your shoes. You can easily skip bolts.

Then the last two bolts to the anchor are a bit more run, still super safe, and probably more in keeping with how the line was first protected.

FA: Dan McDevitt et al. No idea on who added bolts, if bolts were truly added.
By Osprey
From: ...
Mar 7, 2012

FA: Dan McDevitt, Sue (Bonovich) McDevitt, 3/1986
By Christina Freschl
From: Berkeley, California
Feb 20, 2013

The anchor has also been extended to around 130ft. One 70m rope will make it to the ground.
By Kaleem Khwaja
From: Emeryville, California
May 29, 2013

I was wondering how the Reid guide could be so off about the route height; didn't realize the anchor had been extended. Luckily we brought the 70m, which just touched the ground with rope stretch.

From bolt 3 to 17 I don't think there's a single move that isn't 5.9-10a. What a great line!

I also highly recommend Aces and Eights (11b) next door, the crux lower half of which you can TR from Poker Face. Really nice bouldery crux at the first bolt.