|4,499 page views|
BETA PHOTO: Pony Up on the left and Poker Face on the right.
I'm reluctant to post this route, as I have not led it, have no guidebook handy, and have not been back to Colorado for about a year. Here goes:
The route is next to 5.8 Pony Up, and adjacent parties climbing the two routes often interfere down low. Like many of the other routes, this one starts with a jug haul. Were it not for the miraculous finger pocket, it would be quite tough. This is definitely the crux of the route. The remainder of the route never surpasses 5.7 or so, with the highlight being a fun traverse up a 60-degree crack. I recall some loose rocks, but nothing terrible. The picture below shows nice views (route 2).
Addendum: note, this route is quite challenging for folks in the 5'2" and under range.
I don't lead climbs yet, but I remember that this route is well (and recently) bolted with big bolts. I remember two bolts for the anchor.
7 bolts including the anchor.
This is the right of 2 bolted lines on this small triangular face, which is on the far left side of this crag.
Lance half way up Poker Face.
A bouldery start and my favorite move of the route...
1st bolt on Poker Face. I believe the climber's na...
Myong on Poker Face.
Chalking up on Poker Face.
Jun 25, 2002
Getting to the first bolt is a bit of a challenge if you're not too tall. After that, it's fun, easy climbing to the shared anchor!
|By Legs Magillicutty|
Jul 25, 2002
The anchor bolts up there that are also shared w/Pony Up freaked me out a bit. They're worn through about half way from rope and could stand to be replaced.
|By Richard M. Wright|
From: Lakewood, CO
Jul 25, 2002
Gear Maintenance - This topic has come up repeatedly over the last two years. Mark Rolofson and I, along with several other folks, started replacing worn anchors at North Table Mountain last year. I have personally replaced 22 double bolt top anchors on NTM alone and Mark has replaced at least 26, to say nothing of individual spinner bolts and hangers. This is simply a price that will have to be paid if we all intend to use in situ gear. Many of the routes in Clear Creek, Boulder Canyon, NTM, Castlewood, Shelf Road, etc, etc are badly in need as well. We thrashed about with some sort of mechanism for funding the process and organizing the effort. So far, Mark has been stuck with the lion's share of this task and he certainly can't do it alone, nor even with my help. First, we need a list of routes, compiled by area, where the old gear needs replacement. Second, we need to divy up the cost in some rational way. On average, a double bolt top anchor will cost close to 20 bucks for bolts, hangers, and rap system (chains, rings, etc.). Third, we need enough people willing to do the work that the job gets done. Fourth, we need a mechanism for recording which routes have been repaired and when. This is not a minor effort. Pick up a copy of Mark's or Rossiter's guides and you quickly realize that there are hundreds of popular routes in the Front Range alone that are in need of repair. This is also not without its potential legal issues. As best as I can tell, the anonymous individual effort to replace old worn anchors has only scratched the surface. Once again, it seems timely to cobble our thoughts together and see what we can come up with.
|By Brad Short|
From: Saudia Aurora, CO
Oct 19, 2002
The worn cold shuts at the top of Poker Face were replaced sometime this week. Kudos to someone.
|By Kyle Turner|
From: Brighton, CO
Apr 5, 2004
Commiting first move gives this route a 5.9 rating in most guide books, but after the first clip its hard to say its much more than a 5.7. Get the first move wired and this becomes a mellow warm up, worth a lap prior to moving on to harder routes.
|By Nate Oakes|
May 15, 2006
A fun little warmup, I agree with Kyle. A friend of mine led this as her first outdoor lead, and it worked out well. She's short, so it was a bit bouldery for the start.
|By Casey Bernal|
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 20, 2008
I recovered a few draws this evening (3/20).
I will be very happy to return them to the owner.
|By Jeremy Hakes|
From: Golden, Colorado
Jul 2, 2008
7 bolts including the anchor. The first moves (if leading) could use a spotter - very bouldery, and give the route its rating. Easiest line to start seemed to be on the right hand side for us. Above this first bolt, mostly 5.7ish climbing.
|By Alex A|
Nov 17, 2008
Fun warm up, bouldery start, if shorter.
Note on worn rap bolts: if people would not TR or lower off bolts they would last a lot longer, so add your own draws for TR, and rappel off, vs lower off, bolts would last much longer.
|By Tony T.|
From: Denver, CO
Sep 14, 2009
Like Pony Up, this route has a rather tricky first bolt. Be careful getting to it, as it's essentially a pretty pumpy boulder problem.. There is a left traverse and a right traverse to the first bolt. Follow the chalk. The right is a bit harder than the left. After that it's easier, but not super easy. I wouldn't say it's a 7, but an easier 8, but it's relative I suppose. I guess it's a 7, but a less "quality" 7, and so it makes the route harder because it's not as intuitive as a "better" climb.
|By Rob Davies UK|
From: Cheshire, UK
Oct 27, 2009
Steep but with big holds at the start - UK technical grade 5a but very safe due to bolts.
|By Robbie Flick|
From: Denver, CO
May 23, 2011
A great route. First moves feel harder than 5.8. After that, easy but very fun climbing. Very similar to Pony Up. If your partner is shorter, consider leading this yourself and leaving the first bolt clipped....
|By Scott Teske|
May 1, 2012
None of the comments mentioned that there are SEPARATE new anchors (higher and to the right) for this route now... very fun route, fun bouldery crux moves to first bolt, then nice holds on great rock the rest of the way up....