Poison Idea 5.10a
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Greg Martinez 10/05 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Nathan Fisher on Apr 23, 2006 |
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Description A new climb, this route climbs like it's neighbors, with one exception: It has an arete to use. Solid rock, steep climbing, with good edges and a lot of sidepulls, except for the finish (which still isn't runout), and great exposure.
Location Just left of Aquaduck, but right of Burning Bits and Submachine, on the SW face.
Protection Gear to a shared anchor.
By zak
From: Salt Lake City
May 30, 2006
| Big ups to the SLC crew -Zak |
By John Bradford
From: Lilongwe, Malawi
Sep 1, 2008
rating: 5.9+
| Was up here on the 31st (Sunday) and noted all of the hangers are missing from this route. The studs are still there, just no hangers. No hangers were missing from any of the other routes. |
By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Sep 8, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| i don't understand why this climb was chopped if u chopped this route? why & who made u GOD. IF your going to chop a climb do it right and fill the holes . |
By mikewhite
Sep 8, 2008
| I dont know who chopped this route but I do want to know how you converted an AK-47 to shoot 3/8" bolts.
Less is more!!! |
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Oct 18, 2008
| ldsclimber wrote: I was on Mountain Project for the first time in a long time and found your route Poison Idea on it. I wish I would have seen it, because I would have talked to you earlier.
It appears that Aaron didn't know who installed the bolts, and therefore didn't know who to contact regarding their removal. That being said, a trip to IME would have provided him with that information.
Maybe BCC is the next BoCan, where old trad lines are now crossed by bolt lines. IMHO, it does change the nature of a trad route when bolts are added within reaching distance.
We are a community of climbers. We should all respect the rock that we share, and respect those that climbed them first. If a bolter or a chopper violate the rock, the wishes of the FA, or the climbing community at large, there will be consequences.
I hope that a little common sense will help to avoid future situations like this.
Bolters: ask for input before drilling close to other routes.
Choppers: alert climbers of "rogue" bolts and remove with chop with consensus.
We can regulate ourselves because we are all mature, right? If vigilante chopping and retro-bolting continue, ya'll are going to end up with a FHRC similar to that used in Eldo. |
By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 19, 2008
| Hey LDS Climber,
I agree with your actions. Those bolts DID take the spice out of this Merrill Bitter classic. Its great to see there are still routes that aspiring climbers can "sack up" to lead and do NOT have the convienance of bailing to a bolt. What you did was just and you have my support.
Sincerely,
Troy D. Anderson
Victor, Idaho |
By Greg Martinez
From: SLC UTAH
Oct 20, 2008
rating: 5.10a
| Where are the hangers. What rock? I saw Merill climb his climb twice & Me & My friends have climbed his route for 10 years before I bolted it. Poison Idea.We have never come close to wear the bolts were on his route.U fill the holes u chopped it.I want my hangers back. |
By sherpajames
From: West Jordan
Oct 20, 2008
| I'm glad to see this dilemma concerning aquaduck and poison idea coming to a close. About two years ago I was bragging to a friend about aquaduck. How inspiring and adventurous the climb was. We had about an hour before it would have been to dark to climb as we made our way around the scambling corner. I stopped below the face and looked up expecting a rush of excitement and awe, but only received confusion and disipoinment. Now where a smooth and daunting face had stood was a mere piece of rock with lines and arrows directing one to the final destination. I headed up aquaduck trying hard to ignore the bolt line to my left. I reached the point of no return, pumped as ever before wanting desperately to end my fears and just reach over and clip, clip, clip my way to the top. Pushing this out of my mind I finished it the original way. Leaving for home saddened not for my self but for others that would never experience what I had in times past.
Thank you |
By Luke Douglas
Oct 31, 2009
| "If you could clip the bolts of "poison idea" you were no longer on "aquaduck" as MB established it, or you have 8+ foot long arms." |
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 19, 2013
| So I'm confused, seems a bunch of comments have been removed for something.
Is this a sport route, or isn't it? The description say's gear, but the MP listing shows it as sport. |
By user id
Mar 19, 2013
| Reading comprehension is not one of your strong points. |
By grk10vq
Administrator
Mar 21, 2013
| you should have been able to figure out what happened after reading the comments.
expect run-out climbing with sporadic gear. bring a standard rack up to three inches. |
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