Poison Balance  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Pauline Hsieh Season:  Spring, Summer, Fall Submitted By:  jonah on Jan 31, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

Immediately to the left of Celestial Groove is this fun line. Start straight up the hand crack in the dihedral. At the horizontal break, follow the leftward arch. A bolt above the final good jam on the arch protects the crux, a very delicate smear and balance move. Doing the move on the dog feels like no big deal. For some reason, it's a whole different story on redpoint; it's very hard to make your foot stick on the high smear. I guess that accounts for the guidebook rating discrepancies. From there, it's one more bolt and an easy crack to the top.

Protection 

Single set of cams, a couple draws and a handful of nuts.