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T-Wall East
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Multiple Use Area 
My Lost China Doll 
Myth of the Spastics 
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Point of Departure 
Points O' Contact 
Precious Orr 
Prerequisite for Excellence 
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Points O' Contact 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Rob Robinson, Bob Ordner, Roy Briton - 1985
Page Views: 2,808
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Nov 28, 2006
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below roof


Start in a small left-facing corner capped by a small roof. Pull this roof up onto the face above and follow a dwindling crack. Things get thin up high! Bolted anchor.


Standard rack.

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above roof
above roof
Above the initial roof, working towards the crux on Points O Contact.
Above the initial roof, working towards the crux o...
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By 426
Mar 5, 2007

Watch the rope drag at the bottom. Perhaps the best way is to protect under roof and then back clean...

Amazingly good pro for how tenuous it looks/feels.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 5, 2007

Yeah, just keep your eyes open for the good pieces, because there are lots of opportunites to put in marginal ones & pump out!

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Mar 16, 2008

A great trick someone showed me: place a bomber medium (#6 or 7, can't quite remember) Stopper right at the lip of the roof to keep your rope out of the crack.

By Cpn Dunsel
Mar 19, 2011

One of the great single pitch 5.10's, like the best of the Gunks routes in this grade, packing a LOT of varied climbing into one sustained half-rope length of pure rock climbing ecstasy.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Mar 27, 2012

One more rope drag tip! You can place a .5 size piece with a runner in the flake to the left of the roof. This keeps your rope well away from the crack at the lip.

By DennisL
Mar 12, 2014

Do as Monty does: put a piece in the flake to the left above the lip to keep your rope out of the crack, or you could find yourself in a serious situation if you fall off the crux and the rope cinches in!