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Follow a left-leaning "crack" for a sustained and chossy ride past the first three bolts. The first bolt is quite high and the rock below it is a bit loose - stick clip advised. Once at the "rest" ledge, head straight up the improbable headwall past the last two bolts. The guidebook notes that a large hueco to the left "will grant you easier passage" after the last bolt, but this way seems very contrived and would implicate a decent pendulum. It is best to power straight up via an unlikely-looking dyno from a kneebar - probably 11b or so. It gets 0.83 stars, but with a little more traffic (and consequent removal of some of the lower choss), this would be a fine outing.
5 QDs plus something for the two-bolt anchor.
This is the rightmost of the four bolted routes near Marijuana and Renaissance.
|By Kreighton Bieger|
May 6, 2002
The bottom of this route has a fair amount of loose rock - I kicked off a noggin' splitting sized cobble with one good whack of my heel (after rattling it nearly out with my hand). Beware.
Higher up, the route could use an extra bolt or two, but the crack might take a small to mid sized cam or nut.
The hueco out left to which Darin refers is actually used on the route Renaissance, and will certainly seem off route to anyone given over to respecting even the basic nature of 'eliminate' climbing, and therefore seems improbable whilst milking the body sized hueco from which only a dyno (or a very long deadpoint) seems imminent. Go for it!
|By Darin Lang|
Oct 15, 2003
This route has cleaned up substantially over the last year or so, and now has very little loose rock on the lower section. More continuous than its neighbors to the left (Renaissance, Magician's, and Marijuana), the climbing is now on a par with any of those routes and it deserves two stars.
|By Tom Hanson|
Mar 29, 2007
I agree with Darin that this line has cleaned up a bit, though I also agree that this route is sub-par to the other lines on this crag.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Jul 26, 2010
As of 7/25/10, the bee hive is still there but no active bees. It actually smelled good moving past it. Mmmmm...honey....
The route is a little sandy and I was knocking off a few pebbles here and there but all the critical holds are just fine. You can put a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack before the first bolt to inspire a little more confidence when clipping.