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Ivan Rezucha where the climbing starts to get seri...
This is a good varied route, a minor classic. Start [uphill] from [Five Eight Crack], it is hard to describe the location of this route, consult [Rossiter's] guide, and look for a left trending rotten band of rock with a bolt low down on it. Pitch one - 5.7s, climb an easy ramp up to the base of the left trending rotten band. Pitch two 5.10+ - a great exciting and sustained pitch, Start with some 9+ moves up into the band protected by a bolt and fixed pro. Follow the band up twenty feet to a small right facing dihedral, dink in some dicey RP's (a tcu might work here, but i used it [earlier] in the pitch so I can't testify) and pull some delicate moves up the dihedral to a bolt, clip the bolt and go up a .10b face to another bolt (ten foot gap between the two) then run the rope out to a tree on a ledge. This pitch is the crux, it is sustained and one must place gear.
[Pitch three] - From the tree follow bolts out right over a dicey overhang (8+) and up a devious 5.9 face to the finale: a contrived bolted arete that is very well protected (.11a). [Rossiter's] guide shows that you can break the last pitch into two, this might help with rope drag, the belay spot does not have any good anchor possibilities, best to avoid this optional belay.
The second pitch is tricky to protect, bring a few extra rp's, the bolts on this pitch [aren't] too close together either.
The 8+++ roof at the start of P2. Potato Chip is v...
Beginning the leftward traverse across the slab. T...
Just above the crux ceiling. Pulling the ceiling i...
Starting the first moves past the bolt and pin in ...
Making the moves up to the base of the crux groove...
Immediately after the crux move. You can place a g...
Clipping the last bolt on P1. I've always (3 times...
Climbing the fun slab above the annoying starting ...
Getting over your right foot after pulling the ove...
Using holds on both sides of the arete, one more h...
Greg likes to hang out like this on steep rock aft...
Dave Pearson just after the roof move on pitch 2.
The crux arete in the top center....
Tim cruising the 2nd pitch.
|By Charles Vernon|
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 1, 2001
I don think the start of this route is that hard to find. Just go to the slab uphill and east from 5.8 crack/5.10 crack/Rincon area. The first pitch is more of a groove than a ramp, pretty low-angle, and it passes a small roof near its top. The belay (at two bolts) is just below and to the right of the lower landmark of the route: a shallow, right-facing, slightly left-leaning and steep corner, which emerges from an overhanging area (the rotten band, with bolt, that Pat mentions). Everything else around it looks too hard to climb anyway. This second pitch is really steep, varied, and exciting.
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2001
The route is really fun, and generally high quality. The 5.8+ roof seemed to be + something or another. My partner who on-sighted the sustained 5.10 pitch pulled on a biner to get through the 5,8+ roof. I suspect largly due to her height/reach. The 5.9 pitch thereafter is sparsely bolted for a few stretches, but is not runout at the harder moves. To run this pitch through the 5.11a pitch and completely to the top, you should have some 2' slings to keep the rope straight, place very little wandering gear (keep the rope straight) and use a 60M rope. I had ~10-15M left on my 70M rope and not much drag when I climbed those two pitches as one. I can imagine that a 50M would reach the last set of anchors, but not the summit.
The "middle" belay was not terribly inviting anyway, and would require gear bigger than the "rack to 2 inches" description would have you carry.
|By jason seaver|
From: Estes Park, CO
Feb 7, 2002
This is a two pitch route. Unless you had to cut your 60 M rope in half, there is no reason to belay 4 times. In fact, why is there a bolt anchor on top of the 1st (book) pitch? It's 40' off the ground for cryin' out out loud.....I don't know, sometimes I get frustrated with Rossiter's breakdown of pitches. Anyway......I'd say the best way to find the start is to look for the weakness 15-20' right of the big, lichenous, right-facing corner up and right from the 5.10 crack. Aim for the vague rt.-facing corner with chalked holds above a small tree. This corner goes at 5.10 with some great moves, some garbage rock, and devious gear placements (in order to avoid the cracks behind detached blocks), and the face above is reasonably well protected (although somewhat contrived) up to the tree ledge. The next two (book) pitches combine easily by putting a shoulder-length sling on the bolt before the climactic overhanging prow. This prow has 4 bolts of its own, which makes it a pure sport-pitch by Eldo standards. Super fun climbing the whole way........I recommend it highly. Just don't get the idea that it's a long route: two 150' pitches (more or less). Good stuff.......
|By Peter Franzen|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Mar 16, 2003
Did this route yesterday and had a blast on it. Definately do it in 2 pitches though-- 4 belays would be overkill. Make sure to take measures to avoid rope drag on the first pitch (really the 1st and 2nd combined). The final pitch is great fun, especially with the (well protected) runout before the steep section at the top. It's definately a rope stretcher and we only had a foot or two to spare, but it's a worthwhile pitch.
Instead of rapping off we decended via the gully to the climber's right. It saved us the hassle of bringing up two ropes, and only took a few minutes to get down.
|By Darren Mabe|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 2, 2003
excellent route with great exposure. P2 is protected well through the cruxes, but a little spicy between. fixed pin is good, and a few TCUs and small nuts protect the rest. BOMBER #8 stopper starting the dihedral above the first .10 crux. An RP and #1 TCU is nice while you get to the next couple of bolts. Starting P3, above the tree, the bolt is commiting to clip, a green alien two feet under the bolt at the lip eases the mind when going after the clip. Good #7 stopper and yellow TCU above that on your way to the next bolt. The belay at the end of this 'pitch' would be better with a #3 camalot, #11 stopper, and orange alien... uncomfortable hanging belay... OR link the pitch with the crux pitch as mentioned previously. There are 4 bolts on the upper headwall/arete crux not two, but the first one is a scary/committing clip reaching off of the ramp. Grab the lip jug with your left hand, and go-go-gadget arms for the clip.
The route is a clever line through natural sequences. awesome position and small rack. 5.9 and easier climbing is runout but solid.
more beta to chew on...
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 21, 2003
3 stars due to the sustained nature of pitch 2, the really fun 5.9 face, and the airy final arÍte. I thought that on the lead the 10d second pitch was much harder than the 11a last pitch. Great link-up?: Point Break to Tiger Balm ArÍte to Ginseng Junkie.
|By Ivan Rezucha|
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 21, 2003
Gear: Next time my gear list would be: #00 and #0 Metolius TCUs, double set of Aliens green to red, #0.5, #0.75, #1 Camalots. #0.5 to #1.5 offset Friends. Astro nuts (or brass HB's), aluminum HB offsets, approximately 8 long slings, lots of draws, 70m rope; climb double rope on pitch 3 and maybe on pitch 2. Pitch 2 has good gear all the way, every 5' or less. I placed two mid-sized brass nuts (Astros) in the dihedral, both are very good. If you don't like brass, bring a screamer. Above these (and one of the hardest moves) you get a good green Alien on the left. Be ready, because it's hard to stop there. The only slightly runout section is between the last two bolts, and here you can protect on the left. You want to step left anyway (I did) to climb just left of the last bolt. Step a little further left and you can get a nut (and a good rest, finally). Further left you can get a small cam which, with a triple sling, will hold the nut in place. All this is not really necessary, though, because once you move left, you can reach big holds that lead to just left of the last bolt. On the last pitch, the 5.9 face takes a bunch of gear in addition to the widely spaced bolts. It's slightly runout, but the holds are very positive, and there are many good stances to rest and get gear. You can lower off the two bolts above the 11a with a 70m rope. A 60m won't reach. The rope runs over the pebbly low-angle slab below the anchor bolts, so it might be better to rap.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Dec 22, 2003
It is also possible to rap with one 60m rope from the bolts atop the .11a pitch. Throw the rope to the south and aim for an obvious tree above Pipeline Bonecrusher and Spicoli. It's a stretch to reach the tree, and another stretch to reach the ground from there. The tree had good slings with rings on it last year, but they might need to be replaced/updated.
|By Jim Collins|
May 23, 2004
Without question: P2 (the 10+) is the hardest, if you are leading. Be prepared to hang around on Eldo trad funk stuff and place Eldo trad funk gear and then do Eldo trad funk moves.Make sure you have your head on. The upper pitch is excellent, though a much easier lead. Superb position.
Oct 11, 2004
This route is now one of my all time favorites. My partner and I did it in two pitches - easily - with out rope drag. And rappeled twice using a 70 meter rope. The second pitch is definitely the mental crux, requiring gear placements on sustained 5.10 climbing.
|By Chris Klinga|
Mar 7, 2005
This is one of my favorite eldo climbs. It combines the classic heady eldo 10d pitch, and an airy sporty last pitch. It is a must do underated climb in eldo. The 10d pitch took a bomber #3 camalot right after you get all sketched out pulling on loose block. Also a yellow alien size is crucial in the 10d pitch. If you are going to go to the intermediate belay before the 11a pitch I think there is a posible block to sling, also a 3.5/4 camalot would be useful at this belay.
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Dec 16, 2005
I would probably give this climb a 5.11a (5.9s) rating. There are 20ft runouts on 5.8-5.9 face climbing on positive holds on both pitches. The 5.11a pitch only needs a set nuts and a few small cams, if you combine the last two pitches. The crux face stays a little wet a few days after a snow.
This climb has some of the best runout 5.9 face climbing in the Park.