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 ADVANCED
Glacier Point Apron
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel's Approach T 
Apron Jam T 
Cold Fusion T,S 
Cow-Center Route, The T 
Cow-Left Side, The T 
Cow-Right Side, The T 
Galactic Hitchhiker T,S 
Goblet, The T,TR 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Left Side T 
Goodrich Pinnacle-Right Side T 
Goodrich to the Oasis T 
Grack - Center, The T 
Grack - Left Side, The T 
Grack, Marginal, The T 
Grack, Right Side, The T 
Hall of Mirrors T 
Lonely Dancer T 
McPherson Struts T 
Monday Morning Slab, Chouinard Crack T 
Monday Morning Slab, Harry Daley Route T 
Monday Morning Slab, Left Side T 
Monday Morning Slab, Right Side T 
Mr. Natural T 
Patio Pinnacle, Regular Route T 
Point Beyond T 
Point Beyond Direct T 
Variation on a Theme T,TR 

Point Beyond 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Dan Goodrich and Bill Loughman, 1955 FFA Howard Sturgis and Ron Harrison, 1959
Page Views: 1,061
Submitted By: Doug Hemken on Jun 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up "Point Beyond." Some of the bolts on t...

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Description 

The route generally follows right facing dihedrals/flakes for two pitches, ending just left of Point Beyond.

P1 - (5.8) - A number of variations are possible for the start of this pitch. Older route descriptions (i.e. Roper 1971, Meyers 1976) have you follow the traversing ledge from Monday Morning all the way to its right hand end and then climbing up into the left-angling flake system. Reid indicates climbing up from the belay anchor, past a bolt, and across the face into the flake system. There are now at least 4 bolts (3 fairly new) that allow you to stay on the face longer before moving over to the flake system (see beta photo). In any event, this little bit is the crux.

Follow the flake system up until it is possible to move left to a belay from fixed threaded webbing and a couple of cams.

P2 - (5.7/5.8) - Move straight left toward the next flake system to the south. A cam protects the belay, and you quickly reach a newer bolt. This is the crux.

Once over to the next flake system you again have choices: follow the main flake system up (Meyer, Reid), switch to a flake further left as you near the ledges at the top (Roper), or head left out of the flake system and follow modern bolts up to the belay ledge. Belay at a two-bolt anchor.

If you are climbing just "Point Beyond", there is a short 3rd pitch that take you up to the "summit" on your right.

Location 

Point Beyond can be approached either by first climbing Monday Morning Slab by any of various routes and then traversing right on 3rd classes ledges about 100 feet to a two bolt anchor, or (recommended) by climbing up Point Beyond Direct.

Protection 

Nuts and cams to 3".


Photos of Point Beyond Slideshow Add Photo
Slabs and flakes
Slabs and flakes

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By Rodger Raubach
Mar 16, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed this route in September, 1980 with Harry Burr and Greg Ervin: We followed the Roper guidebook directions to the "summit" of Point Beyond. For added "spice" we included the Harry Daley route on Monday Morning as our start. The climbing overall is very enjoyable and is perhaps one of the easier ways of "getting high" on Glacier Point Apron. Our climb was before the advent of "sticky rubber," and was probably a bit more challenging due to that fact. A very fun climb!
By jplaut
Oct 24, 2012

The first pitch is very fun. I definitely recommend staying on the face, as the moves are memorable and well-protected. The second pitch starts out with an exciting friction move, but then decreases greatly in quality, following up either mungy/grassy cracks or runout face (I found 2 bolts in about 40 ft. here, one which was old and rusty. Definitely a bold lead). A good climb for the most part, but not outstanding.
By Austin Archer
From: Bishop, Ca.
Sep 14, 2013

My first 5.8 lead in the valley."..memories..."