Pogue's Arete 5.11-
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| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Jeff Jackson, Todd ______ (from Dallas) |
| Submitted By: | Jason Hundhausen on Apr 27, 2006 |
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Walt getting some Pogue's Arete action. October 20...
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Thompson Canyon's southern access via the private ranch is now closed. MORE INFO >>>
The gate to Thompson Canyon's southern end is locked and is no longer a viable option for short and convenient access. The standard access is now via the longer, rougher Davenport Lookout/Thompson Canyon route. See below for details.
New Mexico CRAG (NMCRAG) will continue to be in contact with the ranch owners and the Forest Service to see if we can resolve this issue. In the meantime, please respect the closure and spread the word.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Beginning upside-down inside the cave, Pogue's Arete climbs the ceiling for four bolts before turning the roof and continuing up on easier ground for another 15 feet. Monstro jugs make this bucket-haul more of a test of forearm endurance than power. Pulling the roof seems to be the crux, but being that you're out over the opening of the cave, the falls are super clean, so just go for it!
Location Climbs left to right across the underside of the cave then heads up the face for ~15 feet.
Protection 5 bolts to a 2-bolt chained anchor with lowering hardware.
Scott clipping the 3rd bolt on Pogues Arete.
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It's fantastically unique to climb something this ...
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Patrick on Pogue's Arete
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Kyle on the bottom of Pogue's Arete.
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Here I am toproping Pogues Arete. Had a blast! Loo...
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Can you say "overhanging?" Pogue's Arete ...
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Mr.P Photo By Jarred Cleerdin
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The view from the back of the cave. April 2011.
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Angus
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| Comments on Pogue's Arete |
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By Allison Fritz
Oct 21, 2007
| Steep start but the holds are good. The crux for me was clipping the fourth and moving past the edge of the cave. |
By Daniel Trugman
From: Los Alamos, NM / Stanford, CA
Jun 7, 2009
rating: 5.11b
| I really want to love this route because of the incredible moves and position... but the some of the holds through the roof are brutally sharp! Next time I do this, I'm taping up my hands ...and my heels. |
By Robin
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 19, 2010
| If you are into steep juggy stuff like me this one is a gem. Too bad it doesn't continue but hey it's great and unique. Spend a few moments looking at the moves pulling the lip of the roof. A good sequence can be spotted and will save you the trouble of worrying when you get there. If you make it to the roof, don't give up!!! Just a few more hard pulls and you're there! |
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